Marc Hebrart Champagne 1er Cru Brut Selection Magnum NV

“Old-vine pinot noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ accounts for 65 percent of this blend; the balance is chardonnay from Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. The wine is closed off for now behind steely acidity that feels as malic as a green apple, with a lemony tang. Behind that is something ornate, deeply French, more a food than a wine in its vegetal, smoky, meaty notes. Though not immediately expressive, it’s already smooth and lithe.” - W&S