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"This just IN" (And now they've passed on)

Daniel Dawson

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December 15, 2007 (Return engagement) Courier Sauvignon Blanc
COURIER Sauvignon Blanc "Ryan's Vineyard" Napa Valley 2006 ($45) is the premier release for Jason Berthold, protege in winemaking to Abe Schoener of Scholium Project. Jason't day job is Sous Chef at The French Laundry. I doubt Jason sleeps much. This is very special Sauvignon Blanc, melding complexity, intensity, richness and acidity all together. Nose first screams candied grapefruit essence, then quickly opens up to peaches in summer, lime blossoms and impressive minerality for a Napa wine. This won't overwhelm you with power. Rather, it slowly seduces until it takes you and finally leaves you wanting more. That could be a problem as only 47 cases were made.

February 8, 2008
T-VINE Zinfandel Napa Valley 2005 ($33)
Always popular here because it's always so good, T-Vine Zinfandel is back again. Just released 2005 vintage. Mostly "Frediani Vineyard" near Calistoga. The T-Vine knowledgable will not be surprised by the large mouthful of blue and blackberry here. It's almost jammy...more like half-dried berries and cherries on the vine/tree kinda ripeness. Black pepper and cinnamon toast flavors too. Medium-full body this vintage. Balance is nice here as the kiss of acidity freshens the palate on the long, juicy finish. Happy to have it, happy to sell it to you and make you happy.

July 22, 2008Scholium Project Naucratis
SCHOLIUM PROJECT "Naucratis" 2007 ($29) is 100% Verdelho from "Lost Slough Vineyard"
in the Sacramento River Delta. Owner/Winemaker Abe Schoener continues his journey of making impressive, delicious, unique wines from single vineyards in Northern California. Of his many wines, we know "Naucratis" as well as any. We were introduced to the '07 version at our first "Blow Out" at First & Main in early June. We like this so, so much. Freshness, grand texture, forward, friendly. Fresh summer peaches and honeysuckle. Enjoy it at its surface and have a good time. Or, think as Abe does and it compares favorably to a luscious Gruner Veltliner. The Verdelho grape, by the way, is most often seen in the Rueda area of Spain. Don't think so much about the particulars here that you miss the most important thing: it's delicious. 275 cases made.

February 28, 2008
ORIN SWIFT "The Prisoner" Napa Valley 2006 ($35). Been out since November, but just brought it in. Found it too recently bottled and tannic when tasted last year. Every month in bottle makes this wine a little better, a little smoother, and the "Prisoner" flavor so many of you have bought and loved from Back Room Wines in past year. Once again, Zinfandel-based with Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cab Sauv and Charbono to round it out. Once again, tastes like savory Cherries Jubilee with the cinnamon and a little black pepper. Those tannins I mentioned are bigger and more noticeable than most vintages, but it's OK. A little air smooths it out. Best Prisoner yet? I don't know, but it's just as good as any. I leave "best yet" reviews to you. I just know it's GOOD.

February 13, 2008T Vine Petite
Quickly following the 2004 vintage, the 2005 T-Vine Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($37) is just more of the same, big, juicy, blueberry/blackberry yumminess that we come to expect from T-Vine wines EVERY TIME. (And, quite amazingly, they deliver every time.) This wine starts with cocoa-sprinkled blueberries and very dark raspberries, then moves into mocha, black pepper, espresso and a little maple. This moderately tannic, supple, big flavored red is good drinking from now through 2012. T-Vine is the only winery that Back Room Wines carries every wine, every vintage. It's astounding how consistent the T-Vine wines are.

July 23, 2008
SKYLARK Grenache Sonoma County 2006 ($28)
intrigues and excites us more than most California under $30 wines. Boy it's good. Mostly Sonoma Valley fruit. Definitely a riper, bigger style of Grenache as it gets squarely into the darker fruits and black pepper flavors. Nose of blackberry liqueur, melted chocolate and five spice. In the mouth it's another burst of dark berry/cherry, cinnamon and mocha. If you love top-flight, well-endowed Zinfandel this is a no-brainer. Only 150 cases made. Thanks goodness Grenache isn't an easy sell so this wine flies under the radar.

November 24, 2007
FOXEN Chardonnay "Tinaquaic Vineyard" Santa Maria Valley 2006 ($34). Best known for their zooming Pinot Noirs, Foxen goes well beyond this with Syrah, Bordeaux grapes, Chenin Blanc, and CHARDONNAY. The sister grape of Pinot Noir is our feature this season. We tasted this last month and WOW did we dig it. Reminds me of winemakers' testament that "it's about the fruit" as a panoply of fruit sensations abound in this Chard. Get peaches, apricots, lemon-lime (or as Sprite calls it: limeon), grapefuit-pineapple (pinefruit?). The fruit cocktail is buttressed by minerals and sweet cream butter. Refreshing, substantial and irresistible, the Foxen is one delicious Chardonnay. 750 cases made.

November 5, 2007
ENGEL FAMILY VINEYARD Merlot "Rock Mountain Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($40 net). Perfect for the shop! Stud winemaker (Bob Foley), tiny production (130 cases), family vineyard (terraced, hillside vines near Schramsberg Winery, northern Napa Valley) and DARN GOOD. 100% Merlot with structure, power and finesse. Black fruits, Indian spices, cocoa, vanilla-toast, mulberry, pomegranate. This is really good, and ANOTHER reason to drink Merlot again. "This Merlot is the equivalent to the Buccella Cab to my taste" one esteemed customer of ours states. You may not agree with his statement, but you get the drift.

March 20, 2008
McPRICE MYERS Syrah "Larner Vineyard" Santa Ynez Valley 2005 ($31).
Taste the sunshine in the rich fruit and the spicy/savage edge of quality Syrah in this designer, new label from Santa Barbara County. Big ripeness but still in a more Rhone style. This may be the Syrah that I'd take home for dinner before any other. 228 cases made.

March 19, 2008
MAURITSON Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2006 ($26)
. Owner/Winemaker Clay Mauritson and his team have, once again, captured the perfect balance between jammy fruit, alluring spice and silky texture. This Zin is so darn delicious and almost too easy to drink. This is the kind of wine I could pour tiny glass after tiny glass until, WHOOPS, I've drunk the whole bottle. Bursting with berries and cherries, pleasantly jammy, and smooth as a Kobe Bryant jumper, the Mauritson '06 Zin is definitely case-purchase-worthy.

May 16, 2008
SKYLARK Grenache, Sonoma County 2006 ($28) competes with T-Vine as the most delicious California Grenaches we've ever had. One of the darkest, richest Grenache wines we've had, we taste blackberry and raspberry liqueur, pie spices, anise and some dark chocolate. This powerful and supple red tastes of good ol' California sunshine with its full body and easy to please nature. Nothing wrong with that! The owners and winemakers of Skylark are co-wine directors of the fabulous San Franciso restaurant Boulevard. They know what they're doing.

February 5, 2008
Engel Family Merlot “Rock Mountain Vineyard” Napa Valley 2004 ($40 net)

Remember when you could buy Pride Merlot for $40? Well, you almost can again, but now it’s even BETTER. Engel Family “Rock Mountain” Merlot is made by the talented Bob Foley, longtime Pride Winemaker. The Engel vines grow on a terraced hillside vineyard in the toasty northern Napa Valley.  This does not disappoint even the most staunch Merlot critic. It’s  powerful, juicy, full-bodied, robust, complex and still finely polished as we expect a Bob Foley-made wine to be. Only 140 cases made, no reviews that we know of (besides our own) and very few merchants sell this wine. We’re one of the lucky few.

June 20, 2008
I paid Mauritson Winery a visit last February with my sweet Holly and four fine customers. Clay Mauritson, Owner/Winemaker, is a really good guy and extremely passionate about his work.  We liked all the wines very much. The stud, however, was the ROCKPILE Zinfandel "Westphall Ridge" Rockpile 2006 ($38 net), a spicy melange of briary berries, mocha, allspice and lavender. It had just an inkling of the Rhone Valley spice/herb intensity that makes my toes curl and I think will do the same to you.
Less than 300 cases made, and Mauritson could easily sell it all to their members. Our special relationship got us 5 cases, and I offer you up to 4 bottles if you'd like them. I strongly recommend you take me up on this!

May 4, 2007Lucia Chardonnay
The Pisoni Family is most famous for their Pinot Noirs. For good reason. They rock. Less production and less noted is their LUCIA CHARDONNAY Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 ($40 net). It's 100% "Pisoni Vineyard," the regal vineyard of the Santa Lucia Highlands in southwestern Montery County. This is rich, luscious "designer" Chardonnay that balances bigness with complexity. Tropical fruits (pineapple, mango and papaya) and winemaking flavors of brioche, sweet butter and allspice (then throw in a little grapefruit and hazelnut) make for a big, delicious Cal Chardonnay "experience." Pour this for friends and I think you may here "I don't care for big Chardonnays all that much, but this one is really good!" 300 cases made.

May 21, 2008DeSante Sauvignon Blanc
DeSANTE Sauvignon Blanc "Old Vines" Napa Valley 2006 ($33).
Practically an "old stand-by" on BRW racks, David DeSante's Yountville Sauvignon Blanc is, once again, maybe the best Napa SB of the vintage. It has seen oak, 20% new in fact. No ML (i.e. no butter), unfiltered. Doesn't taste oaky to me, and that's key to its deliciousness. Taste grapefruit, Keylime, lemon thyme and candied lemon peel. This is one racy, intense white wine! Only 200 cases made.

October 31, 2007
ELYSE Pinot Noir Wild Horse Valley 2005 ($45)
is from a 35 year old vineyard, located 1300 feet above the valley floor due east of the town of Napa. This is definitely a bigger, richer style of Pinot Noir, with ample cherry and plum fruit, allspice, cocoa, and a healthy kiss of oak on the finish. Give it some air and really watch it open up and shine. This is a safe bet for all lovers of big rich Pinot Noir. Approximately 150 cases produced.

November 20, 2007
CALIBAN Petite Sirah "The Noble Savage" Napa Valley 2003 ($45)
is named after the Shakespearean half man/half creature in The Tempest. The owner, obviously a Shakespeare fan, sees refinement and savage qualities in his Petite Sirah. I get it.
Made by Dave Phinney (Orin Swift, Beau Vigne), the Petite for Caliban is sourced from St. Helena vineyards. First release. 43 cases made (not a misprint). The beast presents itself on the nose with cured meat, black pepper, tobacco and licorice. Those familiar with Dave Phinney's winemaking style shall go "a HA!" once you taste. The big pow of blueberry, black cherry and mulberry (of the finger-staining variety) pleases every fan of the densest, richest, heartiest California reds. Tannic yes, but by Petite Sirah standards, not so "chewy." This wine has a little more time in bottle than the average just-released Napa red, which is nice.

November 23, 2007
GREEN & RED Syrah "Tip Top Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($29)
. After 15 years of enjoying and selling Green & Red wines, I finally visited Jay and Pam Hemenway earlier this month. Their hidden vineyard and winery in Chiles Valley is a special slice of land. Their best wine year-to-year is their "Chiles Mill" Estate Zinfandel, a spicy, robust, beautifully balanced Zin (and available at BRW). I was not very familiar with their "Tip Top" Syrah until I tasted there. I got really excited by this wine!
"Tip Top" is, you guessed it, at the tip top of the mountain on which the winery lies. A dirt access road connects Tip Top to the winery. The wine: it starts closed in, with smoke, olive, and fur notes. With just five minutes of swirling, the fruit goes POW. Black cherry jam, creme de cassis and blueberry pie flavors come to mind. The non-fruit flavors move to red curry, espresso and kalamata. This delicious Syrah is just authentic enough-a bit of game but not too gamey. 350 cases made.
Holus Bolus Syrah

October 11, 2007
HOLUS BOLUS Syrah Santa Ynez Valley 2006 ($28 net). This designer Syrah with a surprisingly reasonable price is in my glass as I write. The bottle's been open for most of the day, to my benefit. I'm really enjoying the rich fruit and the supporting earth/olive/tobacco/spice thing. (Just opened, the non-fruit flavors take the fore, I feel.) Both raspberry and blueberry come out strong with French roast coffee, bakers' chocolate, cracked black pepper and just a little clove in there too. Third vintage now for the young men who join forces for the Holus Bolus (all young, notable winemakers/professionals in Santa Barbara) and the bloom has not left the flower.

February 12, 2008
GAMBA Zinfandel "Gamba Estate-Old Vine" Russian River Valley 2006 ($40).
When tasted last week, we could tell this was yet another outrageously strong, heady (16.2% alcohol) big-time Zinfandel. The Gambas always are. Big blackberry and blueberry flavors with ample cracked black pepper, allspice and cinnamon sprinkled on top. We've found some vintages of Gamba "Old Vines" off-dry (OK, downright SWEET). Not the case with this 2006. The higher alcohol content and the very ripe fruit gives impressions of sweetness, but the finish is bone-dry. Good now, but really needs 3 months "to chill" and settle down a bit. I think the Gamba will be extremely good from this summer on, so consider buying some now and having it with your July BBQ.

November 20, 2007
ROESSLER Pinot Noir "Hein Vineyard" Anderson Valley 2005 ($45).
The Roesslers, specialists in single vineyard Pinot Noirs, put forth a big, fruit-forward, wild cherry driven wine from the cool Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Best known for pretty and pleasant Pinots, we see more husky ones coming from here every vintage. Hein Vineyard's southwest-facing, sloped vineyard (which soaks up the warm, setting sun) explains its "bigness."
Lovers of super fruity Pinots look no further. Taste the wild black cherry, kirsch and raspberry concentrate flavors along with classic Pinot flavors of mincemeat, rose petals and anise. Drinking at its best, we think: had time to blossom while still capturing its youthful exuberance. Only 250 cases made.

Crane MerlotOctober 16, 2007
CRANE BROTHERS Merlot "Crane Ranch" Napa Valley 2004 ($31)
a wine that stands out amongst 5000 is a good sign. We took to the Crane Brothers Merlot at the humungous Family Winemakers tasting last summer. It's so rich, so ripe, so silky and so gushy with flavor that you can't help but like this wine. Really. The Crane Brothers' vineyard sits at the northwest corner of Napa-town, where it soaks in the sun over long summer days and makes wonderful wine. The rich, juicy, dark berries take the fore with black tea, tobacco, cocoa and black olive backing up. We think this wine is a great bargain for top-notch Napa red. 336 cases made.

October 8, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
We just tasted and brought in the LONDER Pinot Noir "Londer Estate Grown" Anderson Valley 2005 ($50). This is a wine that will really appeal to all of you who love big, rich, concentrated Pinot Noir. There is a sweet core of fruit, definite concentration, and spice with wild herbs in the finish. A healthy dose of bittersweet chocolate comes across on the palate as well. This is a Pinot big enough to pair with red meat - enjoy it with a leg of lamb or simple grilled filet mignon.

August 17, 2007
I'm pleased to have my favorite California Sangiovese in the shop. ALTAMURA Sangiovese Napa Valley 2004 ($39) is from Frank and Karen Altamura's 400 acre ranch in Wooden Valley, nine miles northeast of the town of Napa. Deep, rich, and very concentrated, with a sweet core of berry fruit, nice bit of oak, vanilla and spice. This is a wine that will appeal to all lovers of big, rich California red wine. Serve with pasta, red meat, or enjoy it all on its own.

August 2, 2007
Two Chardonnays cut from the same cloth. Both are rich, full bodied, well balanced local Chardonnays from well known, thoughtful, talented winemakers. JAYSON CHARDONNAY Napa County 2005 ($40) is Pahlmeyer winery's second label. If Pahlmeyer Chardonnay is twice as good as this (it's twice the price) it would be the best Chardonnay ever made, cuz this is DARN GOOD. Big stick of butter style with pineapple, spicy pear, apple butter and toasty brioche. It's most luscious. This is the style of Chardonnay I like on the rare occasion I have buttery lobster or crab.

October 4, 2007
LUCIA Syrah "Garys' Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 (SOLD OUT) is a Syrah lover's dream. It's rich, opulent, full-bodied, spicy and distinctive. Loads of anise, lavender, olive and smoke mixed in with the big, rich fruit. Also in stock: LUCIA Syrah "Susan's Hill" Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 ($40 net). Susan, the sister of Gary Pisoni, lives on the top of "Pisoni Vineyard," where the vines grow on steep, rocky hillside. The meager soil and wind make for heavily stressed vines and a muscular, savage wine. This is very "Northern Rhone" with the kalamata, meaty, wild blueberry flavors packed into a structured, aggressive wine. Decanting or cellaring is practically a must here. 205 cases made.

 

March 3, 2008
Found a new, superb, not too pricey rich Chardonnay in the BREGGO Chardonnay "Savoy Vineyard" Anderson Valley 2006 ($36). Breggo, which means "sheep" in Boontling, the local Boonville dialect makes tiny lots of cool climate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewurz, Sauv Blanc and this Chardonnay. It's from "Savoy" a great, very cool, vineyard made slightly famous by Ted Lemon of Littorai Winery. This Chardonnay is rich! And well balanced, too (an important thing). Flavor descriptors won't surprise you: caramel apple and pear, pineapple, brown butter, pie spice, crème brulée, candied lemon peel. The balance is the key here. Cooler climate gives acidity that supports the wine even though you don't really taste the tang. Lovers of rich, luxurious, plump Chardonnays will definitely like this wine tons. 440 cases made.

January 8, 2008
New vintage of PATASSY Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2006 ($26). Always one of our favorite super-premium "Value Pinots" in California, our tasting of the '06 this week showed us more of the same yumminess we've come to expect. Pours out bright garnet from the bottle. Aromas of cherry preserves, allspice, tree sap and french pastry. Flavor is a lovely POW of bing cherries and raspberries with a pleasing red rose scent. The finish is good but young. Half hour of air or 6-12 months of bottle time shall help this wine immensely. Fans of lovely, bright, delicious Pinot are well advised to buy a few bottles of this.

December 18, 2007
O'Connor Pinot NoirO'CONNOR VINEYARD Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2006 ($31) came across our tasting table last week. How do we find these tiny producers you ask? Sometimes the wine finds us, such as this O'Connor. Made by Ed Kurtzman, a man we respect to pieces for his fine Pinots from Freeman and August West. This O'Connor is a real "value Pinot" compared to Mr. Kurtzman's other Pinots. And, no excuses here due to price as this is REALLY GOOD. Pours out light from the bottle, but not to worry: the sweet wild cherry flavors pop in the mouth. Complementing the lovely fruit is a little cinnamon/clove, malt, rosewater and candied ginger. It's very friendly and delicious!

October 15, 2007
T-VINE "T" Napa Valley Proprietary Blend 2004 ($45)
is a blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Petite Sirah, and 28% Cabernet Franc. The wine is well integrated and surprisingly food friendly for being so dark, rich, and packed with berry liqueur. 40% new French and American Oak and layers of spicy flavor. Very concentrated, with good structure and tannin in the finish. 550 cases.

March 20, 2008
McPRICE MYERS, "Cuvee Kristina" 2005 MAGNUMS ($99 net).
80% Syrah, 13% Grenache, 7% Mourvedre. The AVA on the bottle says California. It's all Central Coast fruit (Santa Barbara and Paso Robles). "Kristina" is thick, powerful, spicy and absolutely wonderful. Only 100 cases made, and maybe ten cases of magnums? We got 12 mags from the winery. Very cool.

May 8, 2007
Equally good as the Kesner but a quite differnet style is the TURJANIS Chardonnay "Buena Tierra Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2004 ($36). Karen Turjanis makes just a smidge of the lush, tropical Chardonnay with strong notes of caramel and toast. Lots of fruit: pineapple, grapefruit, pear, peach, green apple. It's big yet maintains balance. The 20 second finish moves to toast, cocoa and roast hazelnuts. It's a big Chard drinker's wine no doubt, but there's good character here for any wine lover to enjoy. Auteur Ophelia

November 20, 2007
AUTEUR Pinot Noir "Ophelia" 2006
blends 90% Sonoma Coast Pinot and Mendocino County Pinot Noir with 10% Willamette Valley fruit to make a rich, complex, juicy, very easy to like, big style of Pinot Noir. We enjoyed pouring our "Maiden Bottle" for Back Room Wines guests last month, and all liked it a lot (some loved it). We're stoked to have enough of this wine to feature and sell you.This is Mom & Pop, micro-production winemaking at its best. A Sonoma winery with a worldly view, Auteur makes delicious, distinctive Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. "Ophelia" we find particularly rich, juicy, spicy, floral, exotic and delish. It's the style of Pinot Noir we're comfortable recommending to anyone who just likes REALLY GOOD red wine.

October 11, 2007
HUDSON VINEYARDS Chardonnay Carneros 2005 ($60 net). This second vintage for vineyard owner Lee Hudson is, we think, as good as it gets for California Chardonnay. When you own the vineyard, you get the best grapes, and it doesn't help to have the best winemakers, too. (Chris Vandendressche of White Rock, with John Kongsgaard consulting.) This Chardonnay combines rich, intense and complex. Lemondrops, roasted apricots, hazelnut, tangerine and lemon custard come to mind. This wine goes way beyond "pineapple and butter," although if this is what you like in Chard, you'll be happy. Only 350 cases made, and we're jazzed to get some.

September 15, 2007
PATZ & HALL CHARDONNAY "Dutton Ranch" Russian River Valley 2005 ($40)
is also very rich and almost chewy. This P&H is not as buttery as the Jayson above and it is more floral, spicy and exotic on the nose. I get tropical fruits (mango and pineapple) honeysuckle, vanilla and lemon cream. This delicious, sexy Chardonnay is as good alone as it is with grilled swordfish with tropical fruit salsa.

Leviathan WineJuly 23, 2007
I'm excited to have the LEVIATHAN RED California 2005 ($43) for the next few months. It is delicious, and I know many of you will buy it, drink it, love it, and want more. Leviathan is the "kitchen sink" red of Favia-Erickson, producers of super-duper single vineyard Cabs, Pinot and Syrah. Leviathan '05 is a blend of roughly equal parts of Napa Valley Cab Sauv, Napa Valley Cab Franc and Amador County Syrah. This, lush, spicy, dark and juicy treat is like The Prisoner, but more complex and more interesting a drink. I can't recommend this wine enough if the style I describe appeals to you

June 10, 2007
ARNOT ROBERTS Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2003 ($53)
. This is our "sleeper pick" for the summer. "Sounds interesting, but what else you got?" we can practically here you say. Don't miss this. Cofermented Sangio and Cab Sauv (50-50 mix) from two Sonoma County vineyards. Rich, dark, fruit forward, supple, strong red wine you can (you will) easily consume the whole bottle between two of you. Coffee, toast/vanilla from nice new French oak. Blueberry, wild cherry, full bodied, lush. Superb without food, much better with lamb of any kind, burgers & sausages on the grill, veal chops...meaty things best. 60 cases made.
Also have just a dribble of the Arnot Roberts Cabernet Sauvignons, 2004 vintage. So little, please call us and we'll tell you more about them.

July 17, 2007
Behrens & Hitchcock Winery is now Erna Schein (remind you of the SBC is now AT&T ads?). Les Behrens and Lisa Drinkward now own this very special Spring Mountain winery solo, and have changed the name to honor Les's Mom. We just received three wines from them, and was privileged to have Les & Lisa come to the shop to present them to us.
ERNA SCHEIN "Jersey Boy" California Red Wine 2005 ($45/bottle) combines Napa Valley and "Alder Springs" fruit. Here's the blend: 41% Merlot, 23% Cab Franc, 18% Cab Sauv, 12% Syrah and 6% Petite Verdot. This wine drinks like a powerhouse Merlot to me. Tons of forward, rich berry with dashes of cocoa, Provence herbs and tobacco. Enjoy its youthful spirit along with the nuances of a five grape blend. 443 Cases made. If you're from Jersey and you're a boy, it's a must. Label's mighty cool, too.

January 22, 2008 (By Ryan Graham)
We just tasted and recieved our meager allocation of CAPIAUX Pinot Noir "Chimera" Sonoma County 2006 ($28 net.) This is Pinot rock star Sean Capiaux's more affordable "blend" each vintage, and this year it is mostly from the Russian River and Sonoma Coast AVAs. This Pinot Noir is juicy and substantial, with ripe dark fruit, a sweet core of berry and plum preserves, and sweet sexy oak. Pair this tasty wine with roast duck, cassoulet, wild salmon, or grilled sweet sausages. Its food matches are limitless.
October 17, 2007
We welcome two new releases from T-Vine Cellars:
T-VINE Grenache "Frediani Vineyard" Napa Valley 2005 ($31) is just spot on delicious and certainly in the "house style" with lots of rich strawberry and raspberry fruit. There is a nice bit of white pepper in the long finish, and the absence of new wood really lets all the bright Grenache fruit shine through. This is a great choice to pair with all of your rich fall comfort food dishes. 620 cases produced.

September 18, 2007
PHAEDRUS Cabernet Franc Napa Valley 2004 ($36) is awarded Back Room's "Best Big Napa Red To Go With Dinner" medal. The Phaedrus wines are from Wolf Family (Phaedrus is Latin for wolf). Karen Culler is their Winemaker. We like Karen a lot, and like the wines she makes, too. PHAEDRUS Cabernet Franc is nicely rich in a Cab Sauv kinda way. In fact, it is 25% Cab Sauv. This gives it more depth, base notes and structure than most Francs we've had. The classic black cherry, cassis, mocha and vanilla extract comes through along with a little exotic curry and cinnamon toast notes. Tastes of dark cherry, blueberry, mocha, Asian spice and cinnamon toast. At its prime drinking stage I think. 311 cases made.

March 19, 2007
CAPIAUX PINOT NOIR "Widdoes Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2005 ($40) is from near the village of Graton in prime Pinot territory. Nose starts out shy with truffle and fertile earth. Bing cherries, black truffles, tobacco, woodsmoke and violets come out after just a couple of minutes. Flavors are more of the same with a definite earthy note throughout, which is nice. Classic velvety mouthfeel and a finish that is pretty good, and should lengthen with more bottle time. I predict it will start drinking at its best in spring or summer of 2008.

August 18, 2007
Greg Brown of T-Vine dropped by last Saturday and asked, "do you know we're holding a ton of T-VINE Petite Sirah Napa Valley 2004 ($37) for you?" Our answer: YOUBETCHA. Can't pass up on such a powerful, teeth staining red wine when we can get it. This is T-Vine big times 3. Very ripe and spicy with strong tannins that leaves your mouth puckered but not dried out. Head-swimming extraction in this puppy. Good ol' southern BBQ, or a home-made, grilled Bacon Cheddar Cheese Burger fits the bill here. But don't make plans afterwards-you'll wanna nap. 675 cases made.

March 8, 2007
SAMSARA SYRAH "Verna's Vineyard" Santa Barbara County 2005 ($40 net)
is from Chad Melville, with the fruit being sourced from a primo, warm Happy Canyon vineyard. The wine has a big nose of herbs de provence and dark berry fruit. On the palate there are big flavors of dark fruits, light olive and leather. The wine is really concentrated. It's a little tight and will benefit from a little bottle age. The blend is 95% Syrah and 5% Malvasia Bianca. 140 cases produced.

January 31, 2008
CROCKER & STARR Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2006 ($29). Owner/Winemaker Pam Starr settles for nothing less than THE BEST in the wines she makes. Her Sauvignon Blanc exemplifies this. So many flavors: mango, peach, pineapple, grapefruit, brioche, kaffir lime and on and on. Grapes come from mid-Valley near St. Helena (warmer, richer component) to southern-Valley on the outskirts of Napa-town (cooler, more citrus and tangy component). Bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp is a natural food combo. We first carried this wine in the summer of last year, when it was not nearly ready to shine. Now it glows, and it's fun to have it here for you.

November 3, 2007
Gushing over Grenache. PARAS VINEYARD Grenache Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley 2005 ($42) is the closest I've tasted California get to the best of Chateauneuf du Pape. Rhone head that I am, I don't say this lightly. Was really blown away by the nose and flavors for kirsch, black peppercorns, anise, lavender, macerated & very ripe strawberries and expensive unlit cigar. Big, silky impact of flavor in the mouth. Fruit sensations all over the place. Totally delicious. The Paras vineyard, on the top of Mt. Veeder, makes outstanding Viognier, Cab Sauv and Nebbiolo too. Only two barrels, 50 cases, made of this Grenache.

November 20, 2007
KENDRIC Pinot Noir Marin County 2005 ($31).
Think Sonoma Coast intensity and Russian River silkiness when you see Marin County Pinot. We're just south of these regions, where the Pacific cools the vines way down while still pumping out ample sunshine. Not new to fine wine, Marin County is nevertheless striving to reach more fine wine palates.
Kendric Pinot Noir hits the sweetspot of Pinot Noir to us. Forward, ripe wild berry fruit (a little jammy even) is framed by fine acidity, exotic spices (nutmeg, coriander and star anise come to mind) and a sturdy yet generous finish. This family owned, family-made "designer Pinot" is a great drink. Now that I think about it, throw in a little Willamette Valley into the comparison. Comes to mind as I think how nice a cut of wild salmon, perfectly grilled, would go with the Kendric.

August 14, 2007
The Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noirs seem to just get better & better. Now in, FIDDLEHEAD CELLARS Pinot Noir "Fiddlestix Vineyard 728" Santa Rita Hills 2004 ($42) is truly THE BOMB. In a good way, of course. Especially concentrated, chart-busting richness for Pinot Noir, luxuriously rich mouthfeel. All this, and still maintaining Pinot Noir refinement. Tall order for a Pinot that's "only" $42 (and can discount) you're thinking? Wish we could keep this one around year-round, it's so good.

November 15, 2007
CULLER Syrah Napa Valley 2005 ($36).
We most enjoy suggesting "bridge" Syrahs. What are these you ask? Good question as I just crafted the term. A bridge Syrah is one with the opulence, richness and mouth-coating yumminess of big California red wine with just the right amount of classic French Syrah character for the rather uninitiated Syrah drinker. Flavors are great: concentrated blueberry and dark raspberry flavors are complemented by star anise, black pepper, oil-cured black olive and roast lamb a little on the gamey side. Smoky-spicy notes throughout this wine. The fruit comes from southern Napa Valley-a little cooler than the south-with 11% Sonoma Coast in there for added complexity. This is dynamite wine that would make you happy even if you paid $45! Only 227 cases made.

November 10, 2007Whetstone Pinot Noir
WHETSTONE Pinot Noir "Pleasant Hill Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2006 ($47 net).
Jamey Whetstone continues to blaze a trail in making highest quality wines throughout Northern California. Just received, and just tried his new Pinot Noir. Boy, is it good. Very California in style with sweet cherry flavors, light spiciness, red rose petal aroma, silky texture, good flow. The vineyard is in the tenderloin of highest quality Pinot Noir, where these wines are complex, silky and pleasingly forward. Just a couple cases received, so interested buyers should order soon.

December 13, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
BELLA VETTA Zinfandel "Jack's Cabin Vineyard" Rockpile, Sonoma 2005 ($36)
is a first release from this micro producer. "Jack's Cabin" is a vineyard in the Rockpile AVA owned by the Mauritson family, and they sell a little fruit to Bella Vetta (translation: beautiful summit) to make this wine. Taste big ripe raspberries, Asian spices, and ginger. The wine is juicy, bold, rich and smooth, with Rhone-like spice and pleasure. Fans of big Zin will definitely want to add this wine to their collections. 380 cases produced.

September 12, 2007
Here's the Robert Foley white to go with the Foley red below: ROBERT FOLEY Pinot Blanc Napa Valley 2006 ($26) was a pleasant surprise when it arrived. "We drink most of it," Kelly Kehoe of Robert Foley Vineyards admitted to us. We appreciate the addiction-it's that good. Steel fermented and aged, so the fruit's the thing here. With the frost soon to coat the pumpkin, Pinot Blanc's richness matches well with root vegetables and spicy greens we associate with the fall. Taste peaches, pears, limes and apples. Open your mind and smell/taste lemongrass & coriander. Sounds like a pretty good green curry shrimp wine if you ask me!

August 30, 2007
Just released, the CRAUFORD Zinfandel "Brown Vineyard-Kilt Lifter" Napa Valley 2005 ($33) is our latest, well-made, almost-over-the-top big Zin. The bottle states 14.8% alcohol, which is plenty hearty. I'd guess it's in the low 15% range. Not that it seems alcoholic, but seems really ripe! The aromas shoot from the glass and is unmistakably Zinfandel. Squishy super-ripe black cherries, dark brown sugar, cinnamon toast, mulberry come to mind. Teeth staining concentration and great lusciousness in "Kilt Lifter" without being tannic. Can identify this as REALLY BIG any way you wish (over the top, not for the faint of heart...), just let it be known that this is A BIG BOMB OF RED ZINFANDEL.

November 20, 2007
AUTEUR Chardonnay "Donum Vineyard" Carneros 2006 ($45 net)
is world-class Chardonnay for an amazing price, considering the quality. Nothing ordinary comes from Auteur. They have "the touch" and we'll gladly offer any/all of their wines until the show us different (which we doubt). The "Donum" Chardonnay is big. Butter, glycerine and high intensity play their roles. Fruit flavors are pleasantly surprising. More citrus and crisp apple flavors and less tropical/pineapple here. Perfectly ripe and full-flavored, with refreshing zing from the tip of the tongue to the zesty ending. Wish we could get more, but with only 107 cases made, we're only selling a few bottles at a time.

November 25, 2007
ALCINA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2005 ($39).
We quickly took to this wine when poured for us in October. Dark, sweet cherry, exceptional ripeness, silky mouthfeel, great California fruitiness, truly delicious. This is a delicious Pinot in the style of Londer Anderson Valley, DuMol and Capiaux. Only 340 cases made. (They make a few other Pinots…Sonoma Coast and single vineyard bottlings. We like this one the best, and it's the best price, too.

April 29, 2007
ETUDE PINOT NOIR "Estate" Carneros 2005 ($42) is a larger production wine to carry by our standards, but darn it, this wine IS SO GOOD, we couldn't resist. I was wheened on Etude learning the trade, and these wines from the early 90's were outasight. Always good since, they sometimes lost their exciting edge. While exciting may be a little strong, I must say I enthusiastically drank a bottle of Etude Pinot Noir to the bottom of the bottle. Rose petal, spicy cherry and baby powder nose moves to lovely, spicy fruit and creamy mouth feel. The wine stays smoky, earthy, silky and fine through its 15 second finish. Not only is this classy, it's intense!

December 13, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
CULLER Syrah "Sawi Vineyard" Sonoma Valley 2005 ($40)
is another incredible offering from one of our favorite local winemakers. Planted in 2000 by David Sawi to a Côte Rôtie selection of Syrah, this vineyard is perched 1450 feet above the town of Sonoma on a very cool, rocky ridge top. The vines yielded 1/2 ton per acre of tiny grapes in loose clusters in 2005. Very Côte Rôtie-like, with violets, white pepper, black and blue fruits, and smoke. Only 57 cases produced, so lovers of great Syrah should act quickly.

June 26, 2007
VIOLET GREEN WINERY "Ultra Violet" 2005 ($35) is Merlot-based red wine from the esteemed "Alder Springs Vineyard" in northern Mendocino County. Exact blend is 80% Merlot, 17 Cab Sauv and 3 Cab Franc. Powerful nose starts it off: licorice, curry, vanilla bean, Bing cherry, framboise. Rich fruit flavors expand in the mouth...lot of deep, ripe berry. This lush, dense, provocative red definitely calls for animal flesh, in my opinion. In the summer, it's good with the grill. When the chill returns, Ultra Violet will match your favorite comfort foods. Only 212 cases made.

January 26, 2007
Released since November, and just today brought into the store, ORIN SWIFT "THE PRISONER" Napa Valley 2005 ($33) is more of the same spicy, rich, juicy, concentrated, voluptuous red blend. Blend is (once again) Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Charbono. This is teeth-staining red that is ready to drink and enjoy right now. For those who've enjoyed previous vintages, this 2005 "Prisoner" is most like the 2003: super-ripe yet not raisiny, creamy, very rich and full of cinnamon and allspice flavor.

March 16, 2007 (by Ryan Graham)
LONDER Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2005 ($34) is big, dark, rich, juicy Pinot Noir. A bit atypical for Anderson Valley, the wine has more base notes, and on the palate big flavors of black cherries, cola, and berry liqueur. Definite concentration and richness. This wine is another great choice for those who like their Pinots on the fleshy side.

September 15, 2007
Showing that they don't know how to make just OK wine, SKYLARK Syrah, Dry Creek Valley 2005 ($29) is the latest outstanding effort by Boulevard Restaurant Sommeliers Rob Perkins and John Lancaster. I find Dry Creek Syrahs to be on the bigger side (flavor and structure both). The Skylark here falls right in line with its dark fruits, currant, black pepper, anise, baker's chocolate and red curry notes. Ample fine tannins, supple tannins, here. Decant for 20 minutes and enjoy the youth of the Skylark, who don't we.

October 28, 2007
Just released: FLOWERS Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2006 ($49). Flowers winery has made a reputation for itself for making particulary dark, concentrated Pinot Noirs. Even though this vintage isn't of this style, WE LIKE IT. Very pretty, well made and complex. It's pleasing from the first whiff to the 20 second finish. Wild cherry, ruby grapefruit, rosehips, strawberry and cinnamon toast flavors some forth assuredly if not forcefully. We do thing it's too young and will be significantly better come late spring/early summer. Honestly, we think the winery could have kept their cool and released it in 2008.

March 8, 2007
Two new wines from Failla winery. FAILLA PINOT NOIR "Keefer Ranch" Russian River Valley 2005 (SOLD OUT, SORRY) is a quintessential cool-climate Russian River Pinot. So perfumey I think about using it as a mist spray in the morning. It's feminine and firm in stature. Wild cherry, raspberry, nicely concentrated fruit, pumpkin pie spice, curry spice, and a touch of citrus. "Bigger is better" fans will appreciate but not choose to buy this. Nor should they. Pinot lovers should have this.
FAILLA SYRAH "Phoenix Ranch" Napa Valley 2005 ($45) is surprisingly close in style, and quality, to top-notch Northern Rhone Syrah from a very good vintage. Dark berry fruit, licorice, cocoa, mocha and olive flavors make for a wonderful, multi-dimensional, chewy, youthful Syrah. The Rhone lover that I am, I like this wine a lot. Needs to cellar until 2008 to unwind a bit.

June 1, 2007
California Rosé Report.
Current pink wines in the shop...
SOLO ROSA Pinot Noir Rosé Russian River Valley 2006 ($19) is a crisp white wine style Rosé. Close your eyes, take a sip, and you just may think it's a lovely summery white. Citrus flavors (like grapefruit and lime) are as prevalent as the cranberry and cherry notes. Solo Rosa, the Rosé specialist, made just a smidgen of this wine from choice Pinot Noir grapes in the Russian River Valley. Pair as if a Sauv Blanc: goat cheeses, crudite with a lite, creamy dressing.
MUSCARDINI Rosato di Sangiovese "Merlo Vineyard" Dry Creek Valley 2006 ($16) is very good and is nicely different than the rest. Brilliant pink/red color, ripe plums whose skin snaps when you bite, red cherry & raspberry, white pepper, wild thyme. Good tang on this Rose, especially at the end. Have the Muscardini Rosato with chicken thighs marinated in a spicy marinade (a little BBQ sauce would work) then grilled.
CORE Rosé Wine California 2006 ($13) is from Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties. Four grapes. In descending order, this has Tempranillo, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. This is another "bigger" style of Rosé. Spicy cherry, ruby red grapefruit, plum, black pepper. This is also a red meat, bigger flavored foods pink. Difference between the Kite and Core - Core is a red wineish, but the Kite is even moreso. Food match with the Core is grilled quail or squab with a Chinese five spice marinade on a peppery arugula salad.

November 18 , 2006
Branham Zinfandel Rockpile 2004 ($29) is from the much bally-hooed Zin AVA Rockpile, just north of Dry Creek Valley. We carried the 2003 of this wine with much success. Hope to lure you into trying this 2004 as well. Bramble and briar describes the style here. Blueberry, black raspberry and cherry flavors come to mind. Spice flavors run from curry to pumpkin pie to potpourri. Not the powerhouse the 2003 was, the 2004 is more restrained. Silky, subtle and sneaky-long apply here. Approximately 350 cases made.

November 10, 2007
BARLOW Zinfandel Napa Valley 2005 ($26).
Best known for their Merlot and Cabernet, the Smith family of Barlow grows and makes around 100 cases of Zinfandel each year. This 2005 saw a whopping 97 cases come from their hot, north Napa Valley vineyard. Back Room Wines gets a couple cases, which is great since we like it so. But, it ain't so great because it goes too fast! This is squarely in the "spicy Zin" department with nutmeg, fivespice, anise and black pepper aromas dancing amongst the briary berry and slight berry liqueur flavor. The little cola and cocoa hit makes for an even more complex, intense, classic Napa Zinfandel. Price is really good for the quality. This is a Zin lover's must buy.

July 9, 2007
ERNA SCHEIN PETITE SIRAH Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 2005 ($48/bottle net)
is a bull. To be expected. This burly one has black currant, dried blueberries, bittersweet chocolate, cracked black pepper, chalk, cedar and malt. It combines old style rusticity with modern style big, extracted fruitiness. If drunk now, absolutely decant it for 30-60 minutes before drinking. Best to cellar and drink from late 2008 through 2011.

September 22, 2007
Comin' atcha with a Chardonnay-Pinot Noir one-two punch:
VARNER Chardonnay "Spring Ridge Vineyard-Bee Block" Santa Cruz Mountains 2005 ($36) captures the flavor of White Burgundy as well as any California Chardonnay I've had. "Bee Block" makes me think a little of Chablis. Planted all to Wente Clone, the best Chardonnay you can make in California (in the right conditions), this wine is expressive, intense and bursting with flavor and character. I love this Chard as an "alternative" style of Chardonnay, if you will. Full malolactic, but not very buttery, me thinks more of lemon zest, minerality, white peach and apricot. Always looking for non-cookie-cutter Chardonnays to champion here, the Varner takes the cake, not the cookie.

July 9, 2007
Fun to have here ROCKPILE Petite Sirah "Madrone Spring Vineyard" Rockpile 2005 ($35). Besides the fact that this is big, hearty, chewy, classic, wonderful Petite Sirah, Mauritson (Owners of "Rockpile") almost never sell this wine outside their winery. This hillside red gets our "Most Tannic Wine" award this summer, and will contend for the 2007 award of the same. Currant, mulberry and blueberry flavors make up the middle. Chalky, heavy, unabashed tannins kick in on the back palate and ending. This wine will definitely settle down, show more fruit and soften a little over the next couple of years. To capture the big fruit (which is a key to good Petite Sirah I think), drink by the end of 2009. Just be sure to have Petite-friendly food at the ready (smelly cheese, hearty beef or lamb, roast goat perhaps). 300 cases made.

May 3, 2007
ANTHILL FARMS Pinot Noir "Demuth Vineyard" Anderson Valley 2005 ($45 net)
is one of the most age-worthy Pinot Noirs in the shop right now. The vineyard, which yields only ¾ of a ton per acre, makes a Pinot of structure and complexity. Probably the best Pinot in the long-run, it ain't strutting its stuff quite yet. We think it'll get down with its bad self starting in 2009. The wine has more primary base notes, bigger tannins, and is dark and rich, with big flavors of dark cherry and berry, and finishes with a whiff of sea air. 102 cases made.

July 18, 2007
Must be Petite Sirah season. Just getting in beaucoup high-end, tiny-production local Petites this month. Just in:
RETRO PETITE SIRAH Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2004 ($45/bottle). Owned and made by Mike Dunn, Randy Dunn's son. Grapes come from Dunn Vineyards-owned "Park Muscatine" and is the only non-Dunn wine in the universe. The wine: strong. Really strong. Nose is black currant, dried blueberries, cracked black pepper, cola, soy sauce and dark tobacco. In the mouth, its big and chewy. Good now for one who likes very extracted, young wines. We recommend another year in bottle. Drink from late 2008 through 2010 for the best time. Only 270 cases made.

September 5, 2007
MINER FAMILY Chardonnay "Wild Yeast" Napa Valley 2005 ($50/bottle) boasts bigness and balance. Can honestly say, and many agree, that noone does this style of rich Napa Chardonnay better from vintage to vintage. And here's the kicker: their 2005 here could be the best one yet. Creme brulée, spicy applesauce, pineapple and pear, creamy texture. Outstanding balance to boot. Big Chard drinkers are guaranteed to love this wine and want as much as they can get.

August 29, 2007
Had reason to pop a BREWER-CLIFTON Chardonnay "Sweeney Canyon" Santa Rita Hills 2005 ($57 net) today. With merchants clamoring for "BC Wines," it's nice to have an "in." At All Seasons back in the late 90's I was the first wine merchant to bring in their wine. Their first sale! We've all come so far. Enough with the boring stuff! "Sweeney Canyon" is a very cool and pretty windy vineyard in west Santa Barbara County. This is one of BC's original vineyard sources, and have made it since their inaugural 1996 vintage. Golly they get the grapes ripe, as this states 16.4% alcohol! At cellar temperature, one does feel the heat a little. Chilled in the 'fridge for about an hour finds this wine's perfect balance. Lemongrass, kiwi, mineral, slate, lime zest, quince, cream, power. It's an intriguing wine: more sinewy than plump, more citrusy than tropical/butter. I'm thinking a not very spicy green curry fish or white meat dish would totally rule here.

September 6, 2007
SOJOURN Pinot Noir "Sangiacomo Vineyard" Sonoma Coast 2005 ($48 net) was here ever-so-briefly early this year. It came and went quicker than I can put cream in my coffee. Well, we just go a little more…maybe enough to keep around until I make my cappucino. This bitchin' Pinot Noir is of the dark, lush, very rich, fruit-forward, totally yummy variety. This is the type, I know, that most of you want! Moderate oak here-just enough to frame all the nice, sweet fruit here. Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines of Sojourn are consistently top notch and belong in California wine lovers' cellars.

May 4, 2007
T-VINE ZINFANDEL "Brown Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($33).
If you've had T-Vine wines before, this wine will not surprise you. It's super ripe, so juicy and typical T-Vine style, but even more extracted than the average. If you haven't had T-Vine wine before, the "Brown Vineyard" Zinfandel is a heck of an introduction. T-Vine winery is just outside Calistoga. The "Brown Vineyard" is in the sub-region of Napa Valley called Chiles Valley, and is about 5 miles east of the Valley proper. This Zin is so big & ripe it merely emitted the comment "YEP" when we tasted. Jammy, black fruits, so extracted, supporting pie and Indian spice flavors and simply sensoring enveloping power make this a Zin not for the faint of heart. 597 cases made.

June 1, 2007
MISS OLIVIA BRION Pinot Noir "Heron Lake Vineyard" Wild Horse Valley 2005 ($37) is the latest from one of our favorite, local Pinot Noir producers. Winemaker David Mahaffey (that's him pictured below, holding the bottle) makes this in a foot each in the old and new world style. Wild cherry, Provence herbs, tobacco, citrus zest and mincemeat flavors interplay. It's a little tight, so 20 minutes in a nice, big wine glass or decanter does wonders. Fans of quality village level Red Burgundy must give Miss Olivia Brion a go (and for a little less money than such a Burg). Props to one of the best, and most underrated, Pinot Noirs in the shop.

May 8, 2007
KESNER Chardonnay "Hudson Vineyards" Carneros 2005 ($60 net)
just came in. It's Jason Kesner's, vineyard manager for "Hudson," third release and the second vintage we've carried. We like this 2005 Kesner even better than the previous. Jason makes a rich, intense Chardonnay with the character of the grapes giving the wine its unique qualities. The cool sight gives the wine lemondrop and meyer lemon notes, with a wonderfully refreshing bite of acidity on the back palate and finish. Best of both worlds on this "designer" Chardonnay: really rich and refreshing. 331 cases made.

June 20, 2007
ARNOT ROBERTS SYRAH "Hudson Vineyard-North Block" Los Carneros 2005 ($63 net)
most approachable and totally delicious of the bunch today. We're big fans of "Hudson" Syrah in general, and big fans of Arnot Roberts "Hudson" in particular. Best in a year, but decant and imbibe anytime and you'll be bery pleased. Cassis, blueberries, black pepper, black olive, light smoke. This is hearty, well extracted and plenty tannic (but supple tannins that melt with air). 200 cases made.

SCHOLIUM PROJECT "CENA TRIMALCHIONIS" ($60 net) is botrytized, dry Sauvignon Blanc from "Farina Vineyard" on Sonoma Mountain. If you seek special white wines of this world, "Cena Trimalchionis" should not be missed. Candied grapefruit slices, Poire William, the seashore and sherry immediately come to mind. When I spend an evening with this wine, I'll get 25 more sensations than this. Very oily texture. I'm reminded of Didier Dagueneau's "Asteroid" 1990, another botrytized, dry Sauvignon Blanc. Similar, but this wine is better! 175 cases made.

Visitors to the shop often comment, "how nice it must be to taste wine all day." It's usually not all that fun to taste throughout the day, really. But, when we get a chance to taste four wines such as these, it's not only fun, it's invigorating. These wines are more than just really good. They are inspired.

Still in the store: SCHOLIUM PROJECT "BABYLON" 2004 ($80/Bottle). This is 100% Petite Sirah from "Tenbrink Vineyard" in Suisun Valley, just east of Napa. This opaque, massively berry-laden, spicy, bountiful Petite Sirah is incredibly well defined. I present to you the elephant on the high-wire analogy. It's massive, yet it somehow manages to keep its balance. The oak (partially new) is completed absorbed by the massive fruit. For power and quality both, Babylon competes with any California red wine of similar price.

April 25, 2007
Big Zin fans, check out the SURH LUCHTEL ZINFANDEL Napa Valley 2004 ($36). This duo of Don Surh (the business side) and Gary Luchtel (the winemaking side) make big, heady wines, and usually do it well. This Zin is one they did very well. Two vineyard sources-the hotter northern Napa Valley gave super ripeness. Makes this Zin, thick, juicy and very strong. About 20% comes from the Oak Knoll District, just north of Napa-town. This is relatively cool spot for Zin, and it gives the wine a nice little twang. Ying-yang of real ripe and nice brightness here. It's nicely packaged with a spicy-sweet oak wrapping...gotta like oak on this wine. Only 375 cases made.

March 16, 2007 (by Ryan Graham)
MICHAEL AUSTIN "Bad Habit" Priest Ranch, Napa Valley 2005 ($46) is a blend of 50% Petite Sirah, 45% Syrah and 5% Grenache sourced from "Priest Ranch" in the eastern hills of Napa. This is a joint venture between Craig Becker and Patrick McNeil, two old friends who handcraft small lots of wine with really crazy labels. This is a really big wine. Chock full of dark berry, currant, truffle, spice and plum. Strong, full bodied, and concentrated with really dark, spicy fruit and lots of black pepper. 450 cases made.

March 22, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
TRINAFOUR PETITE SIRAH "Niemi Vineyard" Mendocino County 2005 ($28)
is from uber-tiny Trinafour Cellars, up in Hopland. Owner/winemaker Alex McGregor is good friends with Rob Perkins of Skylark, and Rob designed the groovy plaid label with the McGregor tartan on it. The wine is big, concentrated, rich, and all together yummy Petite Sirah with lots of ruby red grapefruit and spice. Not overly tannic. Only 125 cases produced.

March 27, 2007
I think Tony Bennett sang it best: "Springtime is for Viognier." Or did I just dream that? I'd put this wine in the contest for the BEST California Viognier - PARAS VINEYARD Viognier Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley 2005 ($42).A scant 250 cases were made of this EXPLOSIVE, flavor packed white wine. Purity of fruit and land are the keynotes here. Classic flavors of Viognier-peach compote, lemon verbena, lemongrass, flowers. It boasts a little Condrieu-esque minerality, even. As you can tell, I REALLY LIKE THIS WINE. That written, it's definitely for Viognier lovers as its super exotic, voluptuous and lush.

February 20, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
WELSH STEWART ZINFANDEL SONOMA COUNTY 2003 ($26)
is the first release from this tiny producer, and only 223 cases were made. The wine is a blend of Russian River Zinfandel from Forestville, and Dry Creek Zinfandel from the Dry Creek area near Healdsburg. This is a big wine, for those who love rich ripe Zin. The alcohol on the bottle says 17%, yet it doesn't taste particularly hot, and seems to maintain good balance. The wine displays big flavors of sappy dark berries, cracked black pepper, and coconut. It is definitely a concentrated and fruit-driven wine, perfect for a bar-b-que.

August 30, 2007
ROAR Syrah "Rosella's Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2005
($42 net).
Haven't tried it, so I offer you Parker's recent notes on the wine: "The inky/blue/black-tinged 2005 Syrah Rosella’s Vineyard offers up scents of charcoal, acacia flowers, blackberries, blueberries, and burning embers. This full-bodied, powerful, concentrated effort reveals more structure than the Santa Lucia bottling as well as a distinct minerality/earthiness. It should drink well for 6-8 years. 92 points." And sorry for those of you hunting for the ROAR Pinot Noir "Garys'". It is sold out.

September 6, 2007
ROBERT FOLEY Charbono Napa Valley 2005 ($36/bottle)
last crossed our customers' palates at our August Blow Out. This is an early release (in fact, the 2006 is just coming out) and it definitely needs time in bottle to truly strut its stuff. And strut it does now. Drinking great. Spicy vanilla-mint on the nose quickly moves to deep blueberry and black cherry. Loads of deep, luscious berry in the mouth. This flamboyant, hearty red drinks great straight out of the bottle. We're tickled to be one of Robert Foley's "preferred" wine merchants and to carry all of his wines.
May 25, 2007
Been a fan of the wines of Bruce Neyers for a long time. His healthy national distribution makes the Neyers wines not the perfect fit in the store, so we don't carry many. Interestingly, a wine so well known has an even higher bar to reach to make these shelves. All this was in mind when we brought in the NEYERS SYRAH "Old Lakeville Road" Sonoma Coast 2005 ($31/bottle). Very good in a California-meets-Northern-Rhone style. Dark blueberry and boysenberry, smoke, bacon bits, black pepper, robust, very concentrated, just enough polish, good acidity, yes indeed this is what good Syrah tastes like! The grapes come from a very cool, wind-swept vineyard between the towns of Petaluma and Santa Rose. Not the "real" Sonoma Coast...closer to the Carneros in fact. Not important...the wine delivers. Syrah lovers unite around this one.

May 5, 2007
Have just one case each of these GARRETSON WINE COMPANY Syrahs. Will use the sage words of Robert Parker since we picked these wines up without tasting.
GARRETSON SYRAH "The Bulladóir" Paso Robles 2004 ($66 net) is "opaque, blue/purple. Smell & taste BBQ smoke, crème de cassis, blackberries, camphor. Huge tactile impression. NOT over the top, pruney nor raisiny. 95 points." Also has 4% Viognier, and 300 cases made. GARRETSON SYRAH "Mon Amie" San Luis Obispo County 2004 ($52 net) Robert Parker: "Big, sweet nose of graphite, crème de cassis, smoke & road tar. Great intensity, full body, purity, long finish. Should evolve for a decade +. 94 points." 4% Viognier in the Mon Amie. 300 cases made.

July 23, 2007
"EII" White Wine, Napa Valley 2004 ($24 net). This is Herb Lamb Vineyards' Sauvignon Blanc. EII is their dog, whose image adorns the label along with Herb. Now, you may wonder what a twenty four dollar white is doing in High Rent land. Reason: it's wonderful, it's rare (300 cases made) and BRW is perhaps the only merchant lucky enough to sell the wine (besides Herb and Jennifer Lamb, of course). The Lambs source the grapes from Yountville and have Sauv Blanc expert David DeSante make it. The wine hasn't even looked at a barrel let alone touched it, so the mango, apricot, peach and grapefruit flavors abound. Good acidity in the mouth and finish, and we want that in Sauv Blanc! Exceptional richness gives the wine Napa style. We're happy to have this to sell you, albeit very little!

July 14, 2007
Three cheers for a classic representation of Pinot Noir in the best sense. SCHERRER Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2004 ($28/bottle) captures the prettiness of Pinot Noir with no sacrifice of juicy, tasty berry/cherry. My notes read "rose petals, Asian spice, cola, wild cherry, pink grapefruit." Fine core of sweetness (as it were). This is subtle and seductive. Fred Scherrer is an excellent, thoughtful winemaker who could make overly buxom Pinots if here wanted to...he knows how. This is what he likes and preaches: complexity, prettiness and balance. You'll enjoy this Scherrer Pinot with roast free range chicken, simply prepared. Grilled swordfish comes to mind as well for some reason.

July 5, 2007
KITE Rosé Wine California 2006 ($16)
is made by Favia-Erickson winery. This is bleed wine from all their reds: Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Syrah and Pinot Noir. True "leftover wine." Considering their reds easily sell for $65-$90/bottle retail, a fair price for the remnants. Bigger style of pink. Full bodied. Bit smoky and rather spicy. Blueberry, black raspberry, black pepper, cedar/tobacco. Have this with red meats, grilled or roasted. My favorite? Thai beef salad with lots of fresh herbs.

August 15, 2007
We travel south, to the Santa Maria Valley, the coolest region of Santa Barbara County, for the ostentatious wines from FLYING GOAT WINERY. Their Pinot Gris "Nielson Vineyards" Santa Maria Valley 2005 ($21) is as rich, silky and sexy a Pinot Gris as we've had in a dry style. Clove studded oranges, peach compote, honeysuckle, white rose, coriander, pineapple: the flavors keep going in a vinously seductive way (my prose are so sexy today!). Can't deny liking this wine...a lot!
FLYING GOAT Pinot Noir "Dierberg Vineyard" Santa Maria Valley 2005 ($42).
Very California style in its lush, rich, decadent style. Not to be confused at all with the Fiddlehead style (notes just below) as this is very ripe black cherry & blueberry, sweet oak, polished and smooth. Lots of flavor and mouthfeel here. Burgundy purists would HATE this wine. Lovers of forward, dark California Pinots (most Back Room customers, we find) should love it. We know "Dierberg" from their own bottling and like the wines from this vineyard mucho. Interestingly, we like the Flying Goat "Dierberg" best of all!

March 19, 2007
CAPIAUX PINOT NOIR "Garys' Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2005 ($42).
This is the spicy one of the pair. Not really spicy, but with unmistakable cola, pie and Indian curry spice notes mingling in with the red berries and cherries. Nice richness, layers of flavor (I got a little lavender and iron in there too) and also will improve greatly with another year in bottle.
BREWER-CLIFTON Pinot Noir "Mount Carmel" Santa Rita Hills 2005 ($60 net). Rich, dark cherry and ample ripeness, with a little Morocann spice and chocolate-covered cherry in the mouth. Big, crowd-pleasing style.

March 15, 2007
RUSSIAN HILL Pinot Noir "Tara's Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2004 ($42).
If you've already bought it from us and have drunk it, don't you agree? Just grabbed one last case, and we don't plan to have it for long. Particulary rich and strong, it boasts black cherry, currant, blueberry, exotic spice and flowery smells & flavors. It's rich and strong enough to sing with a nice grilled beef filet or (of course) grilled wild salmon.

February 16, 2007
New wines from Behrens & Hitchcock just arrived. Notes on the wines will come as I taste them...should be soon.
BEHRENS & HITCHCOCK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($50 net)
. Slam dunk good for the $.
BEHRENS & HITCHCOCK Syrah "Alder Springs - 4 Blocks" Mendocino 2004 ($55). Alder Springs is California's version of Côte-Rôtie. Spicy, structure, nerve, power. Tasted on Feb 28. Outstanding Syrah. Black, rich, smoky, peppery, robust, PACKED full of fruit. It's a wowzer. Underappreciated...but not when I'm done with it.

January 11, 2007
We just tasted four new wines from SCHOLIUM PROJECT, the craftmanship of Owner/Winemaker Abe Schoener. These are all white wines. "NAUCRATIS" 2006 ($24) is 100% Verdelho from "Lost Slough Vineyard" in Clarksburg, Sacramento Delta. We carried the 2005 vintage of Naucratis and pleased many with it. The 2006 is a worthy successor. "Naucratis" is very rich. Fresh floral aroma is followed by flavors of orange cream, peach yogurt, white pepper, mango and green apple. If you're familiar with the 2005 Naucratis, the 2006 is richer, more viscous and aromatic than its predecessor. 427 cases made.
SCHOLIUM PROJECT "THE LYDIAN QUEEN" 2004 ($45/Half bottle net) is very late harvest, botrytized Semillon (85%) and Sauvignon Blanc (15%) from "Oro Puro Vineyard" in Napa Valley. This sensory-enveloping, explosion in the mouth of a dessert wine (15% residual sugar) should not be missed. My tasting notes aren't vast because I was enjoying the moment as I drank. I was reminded of 50+ year old Malmsey Madeira on the finish. Abe thinks of Hungarian Tokaji. Only 22 cases of half bottles exist, and BRW is happy to get one of these!

April 14, 2007
BREWER-CLIFTON Pinot Noir "Ashley's" Santa Rita Hills 2005 ($49 net).
More Burgundy-ish than the Pinot above. Wild plums and red cherries, brush, truffle, garrigues. Outstanding food wine. Best to put this one away for at least a year.

March 21, 2007
ROCKPILE ZINFANDEL "Rockpile Vineyard" Rockpile 2005 ($35 net)
receives the label redundancy award for 2007. It's also in the finals for the biggest, richest, lushest red wine award. It's big, as in super extracted, rich and thick. So ripe it may be a touch sweet. Don't let this deter you if you like really ripe wines, for you probably like wines a little sweet (or in wine speak, "off dry.") This is all Rockpile vineyard fruit, which looks over Dry Creek Valley from the north. Hillside, very warm to hot, great exposure makes for Zin full of character and flavor. This is very rare, very special Zinfandel that you who seek the biggest Zins must buy and imbibe.

May 18, 2007
In the style and spirit of Orin Swift "The Prisoner," J.C. CELLARS "The Impostor" California 2005 ($33) is rich, spicy, flamboyant red for drinking alone or with dinner-it's just as good either way. Owner/Winemaker Jeff Cohn (thus the J.C.) has made a bevy of outstanding Zins and Syrahs that have made many of BRW patrons happy. "The Impostor," we think, is next on that list. Blend is 75% Zinfandel, 11% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah and Viognier & Mourvedre rounding it out. Not shy (15.5% alcohol), "The Impostor" jumps out of the gate with deep, briary berry, licorice, cinnamon, cherry liqueur, bittersweet chocolate and Moroccan spices. Lovers of the biggest, boldest, yet not tannic California reds (Zins especially) should definitely get some of this. Food matches are easy-BBQ, marinated tri tip and pork ribs. Braised beef short ribs would do quite nicely, as well.

April 30, 2007
BUONCRISTIANI "OL' PA'S CLARET" (O.P.C.) Napa Valley 2003 ($38)
has seen our racks in previous vintages. For good reason-not only is it really good, it's also of the very rich, slightly-over-the-top style of red wine. O.P.C. is a blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Buoncristiani brothers-four wait as long as anybody to harvest, so that means very ripe flavors and heady wines. This wine is deep black cherry, black licorice, cinnamon red hots, berry liqueur, vanilla bean and black pepper. It's a spicy one.

February 2, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
OWL RIDGE "VINEYARD SELECT" SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2004 ($30)
is for lovers of big, bold, rich and oaky California Chardonnay. Words like deep and penetrating come to mind when describing this wine, chock full of rich cream, sweet butter, croissant, and lemon, with a huge expansive finish. It is sourced from two different vineyards in Sonoma: "Owl Ridge" on the Russian River and "Sweeney," just south of Sebastopol. The wine was aged in French Oak, and 304 cases produced. Have this with some really fresh Maine Lobster tonight.

April 17, 2007
We're now sportin' the new vintage of one of our favorites. It's the FIDDLEHEAD CELLARS Pinot Noir "Fiddlestix - Lollapalooza" Santa Rita Hills 2003 ($53). This Reserve bottling of Fiddlehead's Estate Pinot Noir is, once again, THE BOMB. As much about intensity as girth, Lollapalooza balances ripe, strong, concentrated wild berry/cherry with sweet and smoky spices, anise, Asian spice, tobacco and truffle. The California sweetness of fruit is as much felt as tasted. This, in my opinion, is once again competitive quality wise with any Pinot out there. Only 312 cases made.

March 30, 2007
LEE FAMILY FARM Rosé Monterey 2006 ($16)
is made from half Pinot Noir, one third Syrah and one fifth Grenache. A rich red hue and a big nose of berries & cherries lead into a ripe, berrylicious Rosé. This is the Rosé that I love to drink for it's nice richness and versatility with food. It's totally dry and really delicious. Only 200 cases made. By the way, Lee Family Farm is owned and made by Morgan Winery of Monterey County.

January 4 , 2007
Jim & Doug Varner just received much-deserved praise from Robert Parker in the latest Wine Advocate. Being a long-time Varner supporter, we're pleased as punch to see that Mr. Parker agrees with us! Varner Chardonnay "Spring Ridge Vineyard - Amphitheatre" Santa Cruz Mountains 2004 ($33) is rich, round and still zesty. Like all the Varner wines, it boasts great acidity, but it's still the "plumpest" of the bunch. Varner Chardonnay "Spring Ridge Vineyard - Home " Santa Cruz Mountains 2004 (SOLD OUT) is a 95 Parker Point dandy. This is the Meursault of the Varner wines, with more hazelnut and brioche notes to it. Varner Pinot Noir "Spring Ridge Vineyard - Hidden Block " Santa Cruz Mountains 2004 ($40) to me could well be a high-quality Village Red Burgundy. Wild plum, pomegranate and red/black cherries mix with dry wild herbs, cola berry and five spice. It's a phenomenol match with roast duck. Finally, for the price, Foxglove Chardonnay Edna Valley 2005 ($12) is tough to beat. Nicely rich, but in the end a bright, rather crisp, food friendly Chardonnay should be bought by the case. Great job, Varner brothers!

November 30, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
Recently Robert Perkins came in to taste us on his new label of wines, Skylark, that he makes with partner and fellow wine wizard John Lancaster. These guys are just starting out in the winemaking business, and already they've got all their ducks in a row. We couldn't decide which of their Rhone-style reds we liked better, so we bought all three. Skylark Grenache Mendocino 2004 (SOLD OUT) is from "Eaglepoint Ranch," one of the best sites for California Grenache. Nicely complex, it's packed with black pepper, raspberry, and cocoa powder, with 11% Syrah from "Stagecoach Vineyard" blended in for structure. The Skylark Syrah "Red Belly" North Coast 2005 ($22) is 100% Syrah from "Rockin' R Ranch" in Mendocino and "Unti Vineyard" in Dry Creek Valley. Medium bodied, ripe and juicy, the wine has flavors of red fruits, spice, licorice and plums. Finally the Skylark Syrah "Rodgers Creek Vineyard" Sonoma Valley 2004 (SOLD OUT) is the big boy of the bunch. Rich and concentrated, there were all the great classic flavors of olive, smoke and bacon, with a bit of gaminess to it. It finishes big with chocolatey tannins. All three wines spent time in French Oak, 1/3 of it new, and there were 225 cases of Grenache produced, 325 cases of the "Red Belly" and only 125 cases of the "Rodgers Creek" Syrah.

February 14, 2007
Steve Lagier of LAGIER MEREDITH SYRAH Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2004 ($50) just dropped by and popped open a bottle of this current release for us. Once again, an excellent Syrah from this husband and wife team who live and work on Mount Veeder, just to the northwest of Napa-town. Tastes barrel sample-ish to me. I mean, the fruit is very primary (especially the fresh, juicy blueberry flavor) and it also boasts a lot of tannins. Classic Syrah aromas of lavender, leather and black pepper are the support for this ultimately fruit-driven mountain Syrah. Important, and refreshing, to note that this was aged in all thrice-used Francois Freres French oak barrels. I estimate this will drink at its best in 2009 or 2010. 700 cases made.

January 24, 2007
GAMBA ZINFANDEL "Gamba Estate, Old Vine" Russian River Valley 2005 ($40 net). You heard it here first (or not) that this is going to one much-sought-after wine. My immediate thought when I tasted this wine was "holy (expletive)." Imagine the essence of mulberries and blueberries and this is the Gamba Zin. If you like fat, decadent, intensely fruity red wine, this is it. Not very oaky, high alcohol (15+%), and crazy-rich, the Gamba delivers the goods.

January 12, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
As I write this I am enjoying a glass of the T-VINE SYRAH "Frediani Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($36). It is as fruit forward and berrylicious as you would expect from any of Greg Brown's wines, with a great bit of spice and olive shining through as well. Juicy and full bodied, it is hard not to like this wine, with all the big flavors going on. Blueberries, cassis, black cherry, black pepper; its all there. 595 cases produced.

March 16, 2007
LUCIA Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 ($40 net)
is made by the Pisoni's. A few years' ago it was considered "just the Lucia." No more. It's as good and as exciting (we think) and as hard to get (we KNOW) as the Pisoni. This S.L.H. Pinot from Lucia is half "Pisoni" and half "Garys'" fruit. We really like the wild, spicy red fruit flavors here. If you desire elegance in your Pinot, you got it. The layers and finesse are there. If your preference is powerful Pinot, you got it too. Not black jammy, rather it's got big impact of framboise and some other red fruit liqueur that I can't quite place. And the spice, and earth, and deft use of oak. This is good. And yes, it's very limited too.

March 21, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
HENDRY ZINFANDEL "Block 7" Napa Valley 2004 ($30, Magnums $68)
is from one of the great Zinfandel vineyards in California. The Hendry family has been farming the same plot of land in southwest Napa for the last 70 years, and George Hendry is one of the local experts on grape cultivation. He believes in creating wines that are true to varietal, and also completely dry. This one is particularly pleasant and food friendly. It has great body, nice rich berry, spice, and acidity. It's juicy and intense, but not over the top. Well balanced. We had a bottle last night with sausage and mushroom pizza, and it was the perfect compliment.

March 10, 2007
Easy to confuse ETUDE Pinot Noir "Deer Camp" Carneros 2004 ($60) with a big Santa Lucia or Santa Barbara County Pinot. For Pinot Noir, and for Etude, this is a heavyweight. First release for Etude "Deer Camp," an Estate vineyard that neighbors the winery. Black cherry, sweet oak, pie spices, sassafrass and currant flavors here. This definitely falls into the "if bigger is better, you'll like this" department. 470 cases made.

December 6, 2006
Lynmar winery is making outstanding wines, truly. They invested millions in their winery and talent recently, and it really shows. Lynmar's production is a little higher than most wines we carry, but the quality in undeniable and impossible to resist as a wine lover and merchant. We just brought in their two new Chardonnays. First, LYNMAR Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($31) is not your typical Russian River Chard for it's extremely rich, tropical, low acid and luscious. The citrus is there but it doesn't play the fore. It's more pineapple, mango, bread pudding and toast with sweet butter. Even if this is not your style, it's hard not to like. Around 4500 cases made. The LYNMAR Chardonnay "Estate" Russian River Valley ($43) is from selected blocks of their own vineyard. Rich yes, and also multi-layered and has a greater lift of acidity. All wouldn't agree, but this wine geek strongly feels it's a better wine than the straight RRV. About 1200 cases made.

January 10, 2006
PAZZO RED WINE Napa Valley 2004 ($29). It’s a budding love affair with Pazzo here at the shop. The “other” label for Bacio Divino, Pazzo is the best Cal-Ital wine I’ve yet to enjoy. Reason, I think, is that it’s very un Cal-Ital like with its 2/3 Sangiovese then kitchen sink blend of Cab Sauv, Petite Sirah, Syrah and more. Dusty sweet cherry and raspberry first come to mind. Then there’s wild thyme, cola, peppercorn and tobacco. It’s lush and friendly…Pazzo is an easy wine for us to recommend and for you to like. Buy this wine if you like rich California reds that drink as well alone as they do with food. 900 cases made.

January 16, 2007
CAPIAUX PINOT NOIR "CHIMERA" SONOMA COUNTY 2005 ($29) is spot-on delicious, perfectly proportioned Pinot Noir. Owner/Winemaker Sean Capiaux is remarkably consistent with every wine, every vintage. You expect and you get delicious wine from Capiaux every time. The "Chimera" is a blend of his single vineyard Pinots, and in 2005 is over 90% Sonoma, thus the Sonoma A.V.A. I am tasting this wine as I compose, and it's wild cherry, cranberry nut bread, truffle, cigar box, plum tart and pink grapefruit. This Pinot is very ripe and very acidic both-a perfect combination for high quality Pinot Noir. Only four cases made available to BRW, so if interested, you may want to order soon.

May 10, 2006
FIDDLEHEAD PINOT NOIR "FIDDLESTIX LOLLAPALOOZA" 2002 ($52) from Santa Rita Hills can go head-to-head with any great California Pinot. This is the 300 case "Reserve" Pinot from Fiddlehead. It’s very concentrated. Black cherry, more common in Cabs, is the fruit that comes to mind. Fascinating, tasty flavors such as smoked meat, pie spice, black truffle, minerals and black olive flavors give Lollapalooza it’s unique, wonderful style. Pinot-heads, come ‘n’ get it.

May 10, 2006
Can you think of a better way to welcome an Indian summer afternoon than with a glass of crisp, wonderful Sauvignon Blanc? I have for you one of the best, CROCKER & STARR SAUVIGNON BLANC NAPA VALLEY 2005 ($26). Cool-climate "Hyde Vineyard" in Carneros gives the green apple and lime flavors and the warmer "Crocker Vineyard" explains the guava/white peach flavors. Pam Starr’s fine winemaking does the rest. Luscious, pleasingly plump and super-aromatic, this is unquestionably one of the elite Sauvignon Blancs of California.

January 4, 2007
Nice to read Robert Parker's vintage review of 2005 California Chardonnays. "A great vintage...possess all the power and richness...as well as great minerality and acidity." Here's a Carneros Chardonnay that's a glowing example of this: AUTEUR Chardonnay "Donum Vineyard" Carneros 2005 ($45). Tangy citrus, pineapple, pear-apple, sweet cream, mineral, great lift, power in a very fit sort of way. This wine drinks well now, and will age wonderfully for heaven knows how long. Only 171 cases made.

October 19, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
JC CELLARS ZINFANDEL “IRON HILL VINEYARD” SONOMA VALLEY  2004 ($36)
Located at the foot of the Mayacamus mountain range, The Iron Hill Vineyard is comprised of iron and volcanic rock on a steep 43-degree slope. Blended with 4% Petit Sirah, this Zin is big and rich, with flavors of cherries and raspberries, black pepper and allspice. Great acidity, complexity, and balance round out the flavors on this intense wine. 144 cases produced.

November 4, 2006
We'll keep telling folks to get on the Syrah gravy train as long as we're here. Well, here we go again, but this time it's particularly rare, special, intriguing and all that business. La Diligence Syrah "Stagecoach Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($40 net) is a joint effort of Francois Villard (on the Northern Rhone) and Dave Miner (of Miner Family, Napa Valley). Both Ryan and I have taken this wine to dinner, and both of us watched it steal the wine show. It's unmistakeably Syrah in its spicebox, tobacco, violet, bacon and berry melange nose. In the mouth, the deep berry, big cocoa, tobacco thing kicks in. It's powerful and well structured but not tannic really. What's most distinctive for me is the super-perfumey peppery nose right out of the bottle. Less oak and more Syrah spice. This was just fantastic with the Kobe Beef Short Ribs I had at PJ's Steak House. Oh, almost forgot..."La Diligence" is French for "Stagecoach."

October 6, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
Holus Bolus Syrah Santa Ynez Valley 2005 ($28 net) The eight armed octopus on the label represents the four sets of hands working on the collaborative Holus Bolus project. Sashi Moorman, winemaker for both Stolpman Vineyards and  Piedrasassi, along with Samsara owner Chad Melville,  Stolpman  assistant winemaker Peter Hunken and Jim Knight, owner of Jelly Roll, work together to produce this big rich Syrah from the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County. Right out of the bottle, it is a bit closed, but after some time the nose has olive, pencil lead and raspberries. In the glass it is super concentrated and full bodied with blueberries and spice on the finish. This is a big wine, which will probably be ready for optimal consumption long after it has sold out.

May 10, 2006
It’s a new vintage for HERON LAKE PINOT NOIR "MISS OLIVIA BRION" WILD HORSE VALLEY 2004 ($37). Annointed "the best Heron Lake yet" by winemaker David Mahaffey, I’m a believer. I’ve always loved the red rose petal/wild cherry nose of Heron Lake, and the 2004 has this in spades. Intense red fruitiness, exceptional intensity, a good strong structure and loads of spice & floral notes make this Pinot real special. With only 250 cases made, I’m lucky to be a preferred merchant for this wine. Still, I doubt it will be around for long.

October 19, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
ELYSE ZINFANDEL “MORISOLI VINEYARD” NAPA VALLEY 2004 ($34)
The Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel is the signature wine for Ray Coursen, owner/winemaker, who is known for his big extracted reds. The Morisoli Vineyard is in the Rutherford bench, and the blend in the bottle 87% Zinfandel, and then the remaining 13% is a field blend of eight other grapes. Big lush sweet fruits, berries, spice, white chocolate, and a touch of vanilla. 1,666 cases produced.

September 18 , 2006
Once again the award for most cases sold at Back Room Wines goes to Orin Swift "The Prisoner" Napa Valley 2004 ($28/bottle net). Sold a hundred cases of this vintage, and still have thirty cases available. This is the fourth vintage of Prisoner to sold here and Dave Phinney's (Orin Swift Owner/Winemaker) fifth. Blend of the 2004 is 51% Zinfandel, 19% Cab Sauv, 17% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah and 3% Charbono. This blend is consistent with its predecessors. I've had the wine six times over the last 10 months, and my feeling is that this is the best Prisoner yet. This wine boasts great intensity and real complexity of flavor. It's rich, plenty ripe, (15.2% alcohol, also consistent with previous vintages) and drinking better than it ever has. BRW is one of the few sources for "The Prisoner," and the 2005 won't be out until the winter.

October 6, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono Napa Valley 2005
($36) Leave it to Bob Foley to knock another one clear out of the park. This Charbono has a little Cab and Merlot blended in for balance. Grapes are from a vineyard just south of Calistoga on Highway 29. The warm growing conditions helped to make this a big, juicy and extracted wine. It starts with a sexy, oaky nose and then moves into a full-bodied, luscious, and rich wine, with a big, spicy, knock-your-socks-off finish. We were inspired to proclaim after the first sip, “This is our favorite Charbono ever!” Try taking this to a dinner party. Your friends will be impressed with your taste and ingenuity.

November 3, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
STOLPMAN SYRAH "HILLTOPS" 2004 ($40 Net) This is the reserve bottling of Stolpman Syrah, using choice blocks of their primo fruit from the highest elevation vineyards. These special vines produce lower yields, smaller clusters, and highly concentrated flavors and aromas. The nose is exotic and aromatic, with sweet spices and dried floral notes. The wine is big, dense, and rich on the palate, with black fruits, roast meats, pepper, herbs, smoke, and a little licorice. This finish is robust and lingering. The wine was aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak, and 676 cases were produced.

August 3, 2006
Here's a real "party in the mouth" red: Olabisi Syrah "Betsy's Vineyard" Knights Valley 2004, $30. Owned and made by Ted Osborn, a very gifted and thoughtful winemaker I feel. Readers looking for nuance and refinement need not read further, for this is big big big big flavor. I'm telling you, Parker would give this 94 points (to give you an idea of the style and quality). Blackberries, mulberries, melted chocolate, smoked beef, cracked black pepper and black olive (just a smidge) and so lush. Very concentrated but not tannic. A scant 114 cases made

September 27, 2006
I've never had a Blue Rock Vineyards wine I didn't like. Recently in, the Blue Rock Syrah Alexander Valley 2003 ($35) is like its precessors: big, rich and velvety. California meets Barossa Valley here with it's dense blueberry core, vanilla bean, French roast coffee, black pepper, and hint of dried wild thyme. Ultimately, this is quite the fruit bomb in the best possible way. It's very extracted but not hot, not coarse nor harsh. It's luscious. Blue Rock owns this hot Sonoma vineyard, makes Cabernet Sauvignon as well (it's coming soon!) and does everything right. This is a Syrah that I find appeals to all red wine loving palates. 493 cases made.

October 3, 2006
Two big time, special and hard to get Pinots arrived today, and only got a case of each. Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2004 ($67 net) I have had. I like it very much of course, but it was not tasting up to the big Parker review that it received. Seemed very unlike typical "Pisoni" Pinot Noir. Just dumb? Probably. Should you buy this, I highly suggest cellaring for at least six months, preferrably 12 or more. Whetstone Pinot Noir "Hirsch" Sonoma Coast 2004 ($50 net) is by friend/neighbor/customer Jamey Whetstone. Wheststone wines have quickly reached the super high demand zone, and I'm happy to get the little I get. No surprise to you, I'm sure, that I'm limiting the amount one can purchase of these wines.

September 1, 2006
In and out before you know it, Patz & Hall Pinot Noir "Chenoweth" Russian River Valley 2004 ($48) is a sensual Pinot. Specifically from Green Valley, the sub AVA of Russian River, where Pinot thrives in the cool/cold weather (relatively). I dig the sexy, sweet, beguiling nose of sweet cherry, rosewater, red fleshed melon, ruby red grapefruit, sweet spice. It's intense, juicy and strong in a feminine sort of way. I read RP's new notes on the Patz & Hall wines and, from what I've tasted, I think his palate was off when he tasted these.

September 1, 2006
DeSANTE SAUVIGNON BLANC “Old Vines” Napa Valley 2004 ($33). Super high end Napa Sauvignon Blancs have grown fashionable of late. This SB could be the best we’ve had, and in light of what’s out there, I can confidently call it a value, too. This wine boasts all the impact of the biggest of Chardonnays, yet it’s quintessentially Sauv Blanc. Tastes of poached pears, quince, crème brulée, elderflowers and flint. This wine has seen oak, you will notice it, and it is good: a nuance rather than a nuisance. 163 cases made. The DeSante "Old Vines" Sauvignon Blanc is for those who love high-end, big style Sauvignon Blanc (great White Bordeaux and Loire Valley fans notwithstanding).

September 17, 2006
Mara Marquise Zinfandel “Luvisi Ranch, Old Vines” Napa Valley 2003 ($36) This is big, unbridled Zinfandel from a 100+ year old vineyard on the Silverado Trail near Calistoga. It gets hot here! Old-time, head pruned, non irrigated vines make for pretty massive Zin with plenty of booze at 15.9% according to the label. It's a little boozy of course by definitely in balance, for there's so much Zin flavor in here. Melange of black and red berries, chocolage fudge and black pepper come to mind here. This wine belongs in the "Bigger Is Better" Wine Club. Only 382 cases made.

June 22, 2006
RETRO PETITE SIRAH "PARK MUSCATINE VINEYARD" HOWELL MOUNTAIN 2003 ($40 net) is outsanding. Mike Dunn (son of Randy) and wife Kara convinced Randy to sell them a little Petite to start their label. This is a big red wine lovers' alert! Very concentrated dark berry, lots of black peppercorn and sweet leather smells (very Petite) and a pleasingly rustic side to it that seems to say "hi, I'm mountain-grown Petite Sirah, please to meet you!" Not too rustic at all. That said, this is not a wine for lovers of only velvety reds. 198 cases made.

May 28, 2006
Londer Vineyards hit it out of the park with their just-released LONDER PINOT NOIR ANDERSON VALLEY 2004 ($31). This is from two or three vineyards in the cool environs of Mendocino County. That written, this mixes the brightness of cool climate Pinot with the base notes you find from warmer vineyards. It's nicely ripe, rich and bold AND very rosy and elegant as a quality Pinot should be. For the quality, this is a great value. Hop on.

July 16, 2006
Sojourn Cellars recently came on the scene with a splash. I have their two wines in now. Sojourn Pinot Noir "Sangiacomo" Sonoma Coast 2004 ($42 net) is spicy, earthy, exotic, and chock full of fruit. It's real big by Pinot Noir standards. Non Pinot drinkers will happily suck this down. In the "big" style of Capiaux and Papapietro Perry, if that's of any help. 210 cases made, and the one case I got is probably it. The Sojourn Cabernet is described below, in the Cab section.

July 16, 2006
"One of the finest Zins of the vintage" says R.P of the GAMBA ZINFANDEL "MORATTO VINEYARD" RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 2004 ($39 net). This is a 85 year old vineyard, more or less. It's big and intense. A "big zin" like this comes with the descriptors you expect: briary fruit, lot of spice, big party in the mouth. I can say what makes it unique, perhaps, is its almost sweetness while not being sweet. The fruit is so darn amazing in this wine. Three cases is all I have to sell.

June 30, 2006
Am thrilled to get another case of BREWER CLIFTON CHARDONNAY "MOUNT CARMEL" SANTA RITA HILLS 2004 ($54 net). I didn't post my first case here in fear that it would leave before most could read. Now that things have settled, I feel good about advising you to buy this wine. Really, one of California's best Chardonnays. Full treatment from a very cool climate, hilly vineyard. It's Burgundian in the best sense. Run don't walk to get some of this wine.

March 29, 2006
Elyse Zinfandel “Korte Ranch” 2004, $29/bottle, has EVERYTHING fans seek…if it’s the low-acid, big, black fruit driven, lush, powerful mouthful of flavor (but not tannic) style of Zin they seek. “Korte” is in the hotter northern half of Napa Valley, just above St. Helena. Dried spice and thyme on the nose mingles with currant, blackberry preserves and a persistent earthy note on the finish that reminds me that this is indeed wine and not “just” fermented grape juice.

June 6, 2006
Here's vintage #2 for KESNER CHARDONNAY "HUDSON VINEYARD" CARNEROS 2004 ($60 net). Jason Kesner is vineyard manager for "Hudson Vineyard," which for me is as Grand Cru vineyard as it gets in California (see Arnot Roberts Syrah "Hudson" and Scholium "Hudson" as just two other amazing wines from here). The Kesner Chardonnay is outstanding. Very slow fermentation made for a complex, full but not-too-much style of wine. The sweet butter and creme brulée flavors play equally with granny smith apple, lemongrass, quince and bosc pear. This Chardonnay will please both those who seek refinement in their wine and those who most prefer the sunshiny flavors of California. 189 cases made. 30% new French oak.

August 8, 2006
Here are some goodies. One or two bottles of each. Noted when there's two. All prices are net:
August West Pinot Noir "Graham Vamily Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2004, $45 (2 bottles here)
Loring Pinot Noir "Clos Pepe" Santa Rita Hills 2004, $48 (2 bottles here)
Loring Pinot Noir "Cargasacchi" Santa Rita Hills 2004, $48
Loring Pinot Noir "Rancho Ontiveros" Santa Maria Valley 2004, $48
Loring Pinot Noir "Brosseau" Chalone 2004, $48
Turley  "The White Coat" White Rhone Style  San Luis Obispo County 2004, $68

April 19, 2006
Regardless of price, big Zin lovers should pick up some of the Neal Family Zinfandel Napa Valley 2004, $25/bottle. Rutherford and Pope Valley fruit with 8% Petite Sirah. Wow, what a lot of wine. There is othing subtle about it. Dark, concentrated nose of jammy black fruits, clove, black pepper and black coffee. In the mouth, it's very hearty with more of the flavors above. There are tannins on the end... not too much, but if prefer your Zins smooth, then this is not my first choice for you. For POW, with balance, this is a no-brainer. I said regardless of price, but then consider the relative value and you have a truly astouding big Napa red.

March 28, 2006
Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2004, $39/bottle, is blend of “Garys’” and “Pisoni” younger vines. Happy to say that I like this wine better than the straight “Garys’” which (if I had it, but I don’t) costs $45. Lovely wild side to this Pinot with red cherry, plums, red rose petals, ruby red grapefruit, and myriad spices. The wine sits lightly on the palate as it envelopes your smell and taste senses. Very intense. Very good wine.

March 26, 2006
Obsidian Ridge Syrah Red Hills, Lake County 2004, $25/bottle net, is a repeat smash hit by this very good winery that's striving to be great. I'm serious, the Obsidian Ridge Cab and this Syrah are beautiful, rich, concentrated red wines. The Cabernet (read about it here) is their big production wine, while the Syrah is a few hundred case production. This is very California-style Syrah to me with it's big blueberry flavor and background black pepper & olive notes. Very lush, thick and juicy but not tannic. Think yummy, big red wine rather than Syrah here.

February 8, 2006
Back Room Wines don't have to come from the tiniest wineries of California, for example, Quivira Winery is well known for making rock-solid Zinfandels and other wines. Usually a little too "known" to work here, there was no way I could not bring in the Quivira Zinfandel "Anderson Ranch" Dry Creek Valley 2002, $25/btl. Frankly, I'm surprised this wine didn't sell out a couple of years ago. Am I missing something? It's packed with the classic Dry Creek Valley juicy/jammy fruit and boasts the smoothness Zin-lovers adore. The wine has mellowed a little bit, so the big spicy cherry nose is now tempered with a little forest floor and tobacco. It boasts a velvety mouth feel and super-long finish. Man, this wine has it all. I got a few cases now, and will get more in March when my next newsletter hits your mail boxes. Only 796 cases made. This vineyard is on Lytton Springs Road in the northern environs of Dry Creek Valley, where it's very very warm if not hot.

May 10, 2006
I just received three new wines from my buds at T-Vine Cellars to offer you. If you’ve bought wine from me for a while, it’s probable a T-Vine wine or two has made it to your wine glass. Here are three more. They are as rich, yummy and unique (from one another) as they can be.

My favorite I must say is the T-VINE SYRAH "DUARTE VINEYARD" CONTRA COSTA COUNTY 2004 ($33). It’s the last "Duarte" Syrah ever, for these vines were replaced by houses after this vintage. So it goes. The wine is all cinnamon candies, blueberries, anise and black raspberries. It appeals to my love for Rhone Valley Syrah with more fruit than the French versions.

T-VINE ZINFANDEL NAPA VALLEY 2003 ($31) is all "Frediani Vineyard" although the bottle doesn’t indicate such. This is hot Napa Valley Zin at its finest: bursting with black cherries and raspberry liqueur with the perfect complement of allspice and vanilla bean. It also has good bones, and will be decidedly better the end of the year.

T-VINE "T" NAPA VALLEY 2003 ($45) could be called Cabernet Sauvignon since there’s 88% of it in the bottle. 12% Charbono is the rest, and as Charbono does, it gives the "T" a big smell of raspberry jam and pomegranate juice. The "T" requests your patience as well. The toasty oak and fine tannins volley with that signature T-Vine luscious fruit. Come the holidays, the fruit will take control.

February 3, 2006
Cedarville Vineyard Petite Sirah El Dorado, Sierra Foothills 2003, $26/btl. is an "Estate" Petite from Fair Play, just outside Placerville, on the way to Lake Tahoe from here. My first experience with Cedarville was in the late 90's. I really enjoyed their first wines, especially their Zinfandel. Always tasty, but sometimes to me a little too rustic or unbalanced or something. I found another superb wine from them in this Petite Sirah. It's very fruit-forward, full of mulberry, blueberry and dark cherry flavors. It's intense and very strong, but not really tannic. "Melted tannins" I like to say. It's Petite Sirah, you expect a big red and you get it. You may expect a boatload of tannins, but in this case you don't get that. It's a lot of wine for the dough here.

January 30, 2006
I just brought in three wines from brand-new Ampelos Cellars out of Lompoc, Santa Barbara County. My introduction to Ampelos was this past New Year's Day at a friend's blow out food & wine bash. There I tried and liked the Ampelos Pinot Noir "Fiddlestix Vineyard" Santa Rita Hills 2003, $30/bottle net. Classic Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir here, with layers of wild cherry, kirsch, five-spice, anise, truffle and cocoa flavors. This wine confirms my preference for Santa Rita Hills Pinot. Sadly, just one case available, so two or three bottles max available. Only 110 cases made in all.

When Rebecca and Peter Work, Owners/Winemakers of Ampelos, delivered the Pinot last week, they poured me two other wines. First, Ampelos "Syrache" Santa Barbara County 2003, $29/bottle, is a combination of Syrah and Grenache from both cool ("Evans Ranch") and hot (Ballard & Happy Canyons) climate vineyards of Santa Barbara. Ying-yang of briary/thick and zingy/racy makes for classic, intense, age-worthy red wine. Wild red berry/cherry smacks the senses along with white pepper, cigar wrapper, violets, balsa wood and thyme. Decant "Syrache" two hours before dinner and enjoy it now. Better, though, to put it away until Christmas. It'll be a different wine then, sexy and delicious. 82 cases made. Finally, I have Ampelos Syrah "Evans Ranch" Santa Rita Hills 2003, $27/bottle. Cool California vineyard, grapes harvested in middle of October. Again, wild cherry and berry flavors fly about. Then, it shall kiss the mouth with Ruby Red Grapefruit, red currants, caramel, cola, peppercorns, leather and olive. The Syrah, too, is better to cellar for 6-12 months for even better drinking. Only 48 cases made.

January 9, 2006
Catch-line is "Barossa Valley meets Hermitage" with the Domaine de la Terre Rouge Syrah "Ascent" Sierra Foothills 2002, $75/bottle net. The "super reserve" wine from Rhone-head Bill Easton, Owner/Winemaker, this could be the best wine he's ever made. The Connoisseurs' Guide believes so, giving 2002 "Ascent" its Wine of the Year award. Bill selects his eight favorite barrels of Syrah in his cellar to create "Ascent." All eight barrels are put into new Francois Freres barrels (if they're not in them already.) The result, you shall see & taste, is an opulent, rich, lush, toasty, thick, juicy, meaty, savage, spicy, luxurious Syrah with the character & concentration of Hermitage and the concentration & character of the best Aussie Shiraz you can imagine. Only 200 cases made.

December 8, 2005
Scholium Project "Naucratis" 2005 ($21/bottle). The child of Owner/Winemaker Abe Schoener. This
is 100% Verdelho from the "Lost Slough Vineyard" in Clarksburg, the Sacramento Delta. Should you need an introduction, Verdejo is the grape of Rueda, Spain...as for "Naucratis," I leave that to Abe. No oak, bottled fresh and lovely, "Naucratis" is super-hip party wine. It's orange blossoms, orange zest, nectarine, apple, fruit fruit fruit. Dry. Serve it nicely chilled. 202 cases made.

December 8, 2005
Scholium Project "Naucratis" 2005 ($21/bottle). The child of Owner/Winemaker Abe Schoener. This
is 100% Verdelho from the "Lost Slough Vineyard" in Clarksburg, the Sacramento Delta. Should you need an introduction, Verdejo is the grape of Rueda, Spain...as for "Naucratis," I leave that to Abe. No oak, bottled fresh and lovely, "Naucratis" is super-hip party wine. It's orange blossoms, orange zest, nectarine, apple, fruit fruit fruit. Dry. Serve it nicely chilled. 202 cases made.

November 18, 2005
Just released is the Londer Chardonnay "Kent Ritchie" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2004, $40/btl.
This is a worthy follow-up to the 2003 vintage of this same wine. Again, it's made in a lovely, bold style, full of sweet butter, cream, roast almonds, dry sherry, tropical fruits, and the like. Has a lot of citrus flavors, too, like lime and tangerine. Bright acidity on the finish that freshens the palate. Amenable with oodles of rich, cold weather white meat dishes.

November 18, 2005
Lovers of big and complex Napa reds should check out the Renard "Tres Niños" Red Napa Valley 2002 for $45/btl. Renard Owner/Winemaker Bayard Fox sourced (most of) the fruit from a tiny vineyard in Calistoga, belonging to Shafer Winemaker Elias Fernandez. Elias's three sons (Tres Niños) are the wine's namesake. Blend is 50% Syrah, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petite Sirah. This wine's got girth: concentrated dark berries, black pepper and sundry brown spices, vanilla, licorice, espresso. Big red yes. Maintains fine balance so one can enjoy the many flavors, yes. Very little made, like a couple hundred cases.

July 7, 2005
Maldonado Chardonnay "Los Olivos Vineyard" Napa Valley 2003 ($45/bottle) is second release from this family vineyard in south Napa, near Carneros, and the coolest part of this Wine Country. Lovingly crafted by Abe Schoener, this wine is incredible. Being its second impressive vintage, it's demeaning to place it on coattails by calling it "Baby Marcassin," but what the heck. Full-flavored style with impeccable balance and lively acidity, it is spicy pear, lemon curd, brown butter, buttercream. Sinfully good. 550 cases made.

May 23, 2005
Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir "Fiddlestix Vineyard - 728" Santa Rita Hills 2002 $39/bottle follows the very fine 2001 vintage of the same wine. To this guy, the 2002 does not disappoint. I'm growing to be a really big fan of Santa Rita Hills. This is western Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County. The Pacific cools the region way down, and the soils are particularly good for Pinot Noir here. The Pinots from Santa Rita Hills are uncommonly earth-driven and texturally big, rich and velvety. Most Burgundian American Pinots for me for they have the earth of Burgundy, the richness and the acidity but are not too tannic nor acidic as the Oregon Pinots can be. More pleasure, which is nice. Back to the Fiddlehead. It has all these wonderful flavors and textures mentioned above. Also, there's wild black cherry, smoke, black earth, Indian spices, medjool dates. It's outstanding and is extremely well priced for the quality of the wine.

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