The Wine Diary
August, 2008
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August 7, 2008
JELLY ROLL Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley 2006 ($38) captures everything good about California Syrah. Deep, rich California fruit, high glycerine, and Rhone-esque smoke/French roast coffee/black olive thing going on. Must like a touch of game in your Syrah to really dig this. Sashi Moorman (of Stolpman Vineyard) makes Jelly Roll for owner Jim Knight. It's part "Larner" and "Stolpman" fruit. Fantastic label...I'll sell a case on this alone. The super-rich mouth feel, layers of flavors and long creamy ending make this a heck of a wine. Drinking well now.
August 7, 2008
GAMBA Zinfandel "Moratto Vineyard-Old Vines" Russian River Valley 2006 ($40). "Moratto" was 86 years old in 2006. Quickly approaching century status. Not shy by any stretch of the imagination. Very ripe, heady, juicy, yet DRY Zinfandel. (Hard to get dry at such ripeness and almost 16% alcohol). Black cherry jam, licorice, five spice, cinnamon/clove. This powerful Zin is definitely best with big flavored red meats with garlic, herbs, soy, mustard marinade (or whatever is your fancy here). When a customer requests "the biggest Zin we got," we go straight to Gamba "Moratto" 2006.
August 4, 2008
My notes on the three latest T-Vine wines:
T-Vine "T" Red Wine Napa Valley 2005 ($45) is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Petite Sirah (the blend can change significantly vintage to vintage). Consistency is the name of the game at T-Vine. Always so good, juicy, strong and silky. "The most important quality factor on T-Vine wines to me is the texture. They are always hearty and still with a very silky mouthfeel" says Owner/Winemaker Greg Brown.
(I paraphrase...I don't think Greg would ever use the phrase "quality factor." Hope he's cool with it.)
Burst of bing cherry and dark plum meat. Five spice and vannila bean frame the dense fruit. Robust and juicy with a satin mid palate and a long, luscious ending. It's just how Greg wants it, and how you like it. 545 cases.
T-VINE Merlot Napa Valley 2005 ($33). Slam dunk delicious. Expect anything less from T-Vine? Didn't think so. The Merlot comes from the toasty northern Napa Valley, where grapes easily reach finger-staining ripeness and concentration. I taste squisy black cherries picked warm off the tree in July, cinnamon and mocha. Full bodied, smooth, friendly yet formidable, this very satisfying Merlot will keep drinking well through 2012, so don't hesitate in picking up at least a six pack ;-). 420 cases made.
If I had to pick one current T-Vine wine to drink, I guess I'd choose the T-VINE Zinfandel "Brown Vineyard" Napa Valley 2005 ($33). Thank goodness I don't have to make such a decision!
"Brown" is in Chiles Valley, a part of Napa Valley that's east and above the Valley floor. The elevation means it's just a little cooler here in the evenings, so the acids are typically a little higher than the wines made below in the main part of Napa Valley. I love Chiles Valley Zins (Green & Red, case in point). As for the T-Vine "Brown," sweet oak frames the briary, almost jammy fruit core. Blueberry essence, black cherry (touch of liqueur), touch of anise and cracked black pepper. The oak gives the wine its vanilla cream nose (buttressed by big berry and cherry joy). Great grilling Zin. It'll hold up to most anything you put up against it. 695 cases made.
July 31, 2008
Co-Owner Craig Haserot just dropped off a case each of their 2006 Pinot Noirs. A Back Room favorite the past two vintages, we're happy to have their latest.
SOJOURN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2006 ($37) is sourced from three vineyards in the sprawling AVA of Sonoma Coast. Carneros and Western Sonoma County mix together to make a bright, complex, juicy, mouth-watering style. Medium bodied with a pleasing earth/spice complex on the back palate and finish, this is a fish and pork loin match.
SOJOURN Pinot Noir "Sangiacomo Vineyards" Sonoma Coast 2006 ($48 net) captures the strong spice and fresh earth qualities of fine Pinot Noir. Mincemeat, cinnamon-dusted cherries, framboise, anise and sweet red cherries penetrate the senses in an intense yet medium-bodied style. Very silky, approachable, and ready to enjoy anytime. Go for the beef filet or the not-so-spicy Indian curry with the Sojourn Sangiacomo.
July 31, 2008
Revisited this week, the CAPIAUX Pinot Noir "Widdoes Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2006 ($40) is spreading its wings. This one needed a little time. Tasted in January, it was GOOD but I could tell 6-12 months would reward the wait. It's beginning to be time to imbibe (and will continue to be for a 3-4 years). All the parts of Pinot that fans of the grape love so much are here. Potpourri, rosewater, truffle, tobacco, sweet plum, cherries, allspice. This is classic Russian River Pinot in spades...the vineyard lies between Graton and Occidental.This cool, dry-farmed vineyard consistently gives gorgeous fruit to Owner/Winemaker Sean Capiaux. This medium-bodied, fruit-laden, complex Pinot Noir is a fine foil for herb-crusted pork roast and salmon prepared any way you like. 363 cases made.
July 29, 2008
Pleasant discovery when I was poured the STEPHEN TEST Chardonnay "Sangiacomo Vineyards" Carneros 2006 ($34) last week. Stephen Test has been around the valley for many years. I remember him pouring and speaking passionately about the super-primo Merryvale wines that he made in the 90s. I've always liked the wines he's made. This Chardonnay is a classic, rich Carneros white. I enjoy the fresh-churned butter, lip-smacking citrus flavors, fine balance of acidity and ample richness. This shall please the lovers of buttery Chards without a hitch. It'll satisfy seekers of balanced Chards, too. Reminds me of Frostwatch Chardonnay.
July 28, 2008
MISS OLIVIA BRION Pinot Noir, Wild Horse Valley 2006 ($38) First reviewed in February. Our notes then
and now include "wild cherry, bright orange-fleshed plum, framboise, coriander, white pepper, wild thyme and ruby grapefruit flavors dance in and out of the wine."
I forgot how much I like this wine until last night, when I tasted Miss Olivia Brion/Heron Lake Pinot Noirs back to 1992. The 90s vintages were interesting at best. The 21st century vintages were generally very good. Tasting them blind, I was very pleased to discover that this 2006 was just about my favorite of the night. Why am I very pleased, because IT'S THE ONE FOR SALE and you can have some.
Forward Pinot Noir fruit, a smack of sweet barrel, rose petals and exotic spice in there. This is on the bigger side of Pinot Noir at the moment with a smidge of liqueur and pie spice peaking in. I can't report this with every vintage of Miss Olivia Brion, but this is a local red wine that I think most everybody will enjoy.
July 27, 2008
Imagine the day when wine fans flock to wild, intense, cooler-climate Syrahs.
You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. Here are two new slightly wild, amazing Syrahs cut from the Nortern Rhone cloth:
RELIC Syrah "Alder Springs Vineyard" Mendocino County 2005 ($58). Rhone fans Mike Hirby and Schatzi Throckmorton (co-owners) love Syrah, and love to make it. Their "Alder Springs" is a crackin' good replica for Cote-Rotie. Blue fruits, cracked black peppercorns, lavender and smoked bacon aromas lead to blueberries, wild cherry, Asian spices and pink grapefuit-like acidity. Still a little disjointed, this is going to evolve and blossom I think in late 2009 and be spectacular through 2015 at least. A good, gamey California Syrah is unlike anything else. Big California fruit mixed with the exotic perfume is, granted, not for everyone (I can attest to this). But, for those who dig it, it's the perfect red meat wine.
ARNOT ROBERTS Syrah "Griffin's Lair" Sonoma Coast 2006 ($63). Artisan winemaking (Duncan Meyers and Nate Roberts) and a grand cool-climate vineyard make for a Syrah that blends the best of California and Northern Rhone styles. I get blueberries, smoky bacon, oil-cured olives, lavender, spit-roasted leg of lamb. You're either turned way on or turned way off by my descriptors. 150 cases made (I think). Extra extra: check out the ARNOT ROBERTS Chardonnay "Green Island Vineyard" Napa Valley 2007 ($33), a no butter, almost no oak, high acid, racy, wonderful Chardonnay from the southernmost spot of Napa County. Only 70 cases made, and we got one.
July 5, 2008
BRIDESMAID Red Wine, Napa Valley 2005 blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a little Syrah. The label is co-owned and co-made by Drew Neiman (Neiman Cellars) and Pam Starr (Crocker & Starr). This fruit-forward, medium-bodied, slightly spicy red reminds me of cherries jubilee but dry. The Cab comes through on the mid palate with the Syrah-game peaking around the corner. Merlot gives a more silky mouthfeel. It's very easy to drink while being very juicy and "Napa style." It's very easy to drink and drink.
May 8, 2008
HERB LAMB "EII" White Wine (100% Sauvignon Blanc) Napa Valley 2007 ($25). Herb and Jennifer Lamb live on their vineyard just below where Howell Mountain starts as one drives up Deer Park Road. Their vineyard is planted to Cab mostly. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from Yountville, where from (arguably) the best Sauv Blanc in Napa hails. This SB is CRISP in the best of ways: taste Granny Smith apple, meyer lemon, lime and lemon thyme. Big flavored and still refreshing as a skinny dip in August, Herb Lamb Sauv Blanc will make any bright-style SB fan happy.
July 23, 2008
SKYLARK Grenache Sonoma County 2006 ($28) intrigues and excites us more than most California under $30 wines. Boy it's good. Mostly Sonoma Valley fruit. Definitely a riper, bigger style of Grenache as it gets squarely into the darker fruits and black pepper flavors. Nose of blackberry liqueur, melted chocolate and five spice. In the mouth it's another burst of dark berry/cherry, cinnamon and mocha. If you love top-flight, well-endowed Zinfandel this is a no-brainer. Only 150 cases made. Thanks goodness Grenache isn't an easy sell so this wine flies under the radar.
July 22, 2008
SCHOLIUM PROJECT "Naucratis" 2007 ($29) is 100% Verdelho from "Lost Slough Vineyard" in the Sacramento River Delta. Owner/Winemaker Abe Schoener continues his journey of making impressive, delicious, unique wines from single vineyards in Northern California. Of his many wines, we know "Naucratis" as well as any. We were introduced to the '07 version at our first "Blow Out" at First & Main in early June. We like this so, so much. Freshness, grand texture, forward, friendly. Fresh summer peaches and honeysuckle. Enjoy it at its surface and have a good time. Or, think as Abe does and it compares favorably to a luscious Gruner Veltliner. The Verdelho grape, by the way, is most often seen in the Rueda area of Spain. Don't think so much about the particulars here that you miss the most important thing: it's delicious. 275 cases made.
July 21, 2008
Please be sure to visit our current Featured Winery: ANTHILL FARMS.
Click here for our glowing write-up. Salute!
July 9, 2008
ERNA SCHEIN "Jersey Boy" Red 2006 ($50) Les Behrens and Lisa Drinkward continue to make heady, intense, powerful wines up on Spring Mountain. "Jersey Boy" blends Syrah, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot (in that order). Comes from "Alder Springs Vineyard" in Mendocino and "Kenefick Ranch" in Napa. I dig this intriguing wine. Black cherries, mulberries, Violets, cardamon, ginger, orange tea. Keep tasting it and you'll get something different, and nice, each time. 330 cases made. Also new from Erna Schein: PETITE SIRAH Spring Mountain District 2006, $48. "FRONT MAN" Red Blend 2005 (aka "Fat Boy") $75 net. SYRAH "Alder Springs-Homage to Ed Oliviera" 2006, $60.
July 8, 2008 
The dearth of highest-quality, full-treatment Chardonnay is partially filled with the presence of HUGE BEAR Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2006 ($42). This new label comes from Knights Valley, the sliver of vineyard land just north of Napa Valley. Lesser-known because there's no town here, just grapes, and bigger wineries take most of these. (Seen Beringer Knights Valley Cab before? Probably.) One winery of note here is Peter Michael, and that's no small potatoes! Huge Bear Chard is rich, creamy, smoky, buttery AND well balanced (a must to make these shelves.) Interesting, it's but 25% malolactic, which is the process that gives the wine a buttery flavory. However, the rest of the treatment (fine oak ageing, stirring the lees) make this a hum-dinger of a mouthful of Chardonnay. Do you know and like Shafer "Red Shoulder" Chardonnay? It, too, is almost no malolactic, but BOY IS IT RICH. As is Huge Bear. I recommend trying this unequivocally if you go for very rich, lovely under 100 case production (!) Chardonnay.
July 2, 2008
You'll be seeing BRW blowing this whistle for a few months (until it runs out on us):
CALIBAN Petite Sirah "Noble Savage" Napa Valley 2004 ($40 net). 200 case production, old vine St. Helena Petite, made by Dave Phinney, the owner/winemaker for Orin Swift. Pretty great set up for a fantastic wine, don't you think? It is! Caliban owner and old friend Jack Bittner poured for us last week. Dynamite. Has the purple black, deep color that stays on the side of the glass for five seconds after swirling. The flavor is pure, highest quality, bold as bold can be Petite Sirah: blueberry jam with pounded black peppercorns, hint of bacon and violet, immense flavors, chewy finish yet not drying. We've committed to a good chunk of the 200 cases made. Once you try it, we guess that you'll want more.
June 26, 2008
Joining the ranks of super-premium Merlot is BUCCELLA Merlot Napa Valley 2005 ($75). A Cabernet specialist since the 2002 vintage (the Cab has been very successful for us, and we have the 2005 now. Here are the Buccella Cab tasting notes.) The Merlot, also made by the very skilled Mark Herold, comes primarily from the Coombsville region of Napa Valley, just east of Napa. The aromatics of the wine set it apart from its brethren. Violets, Asian spices, candied ginger, sweet cherries, hard raspberry candies. As we expect from a Mark Herold wine, it is lavishly oaked. Yet, the quality of the Napa Valley Merlot gives it balance. Big Cab drinkers will enjoy and appreciate this wine, but my best customer for the Buccella Merlot is a seeker of sweet, full-flavored Napa red with the velvet texture of classic Merlot.
June 23, 2008
Pinot Noir specialist Roessler churns out, if you will, a few hundred cases of this and that single vineyard wines.
My favorite of their 2005s is the ROESSLER Pinot Noir "Sanford & Benedict Vineyard" Santa Rita Hills 2005 ($46). I'm a large Santa Rita Hills fan...this is the westernmost part of Santa Barbara County and is the home of, generally speaking, the most most complex and Burgundian Pinot Noirs in California. "Sanford & Benedict" is one of the first great vineyards planted here. The wine: flashy, deep, wild cherry. Indian spices like cardamon and curry. Spicecake, French roast coffee and thyme. This big-flavored Pinot has strong tannins and a particularly long, earth/spice finish. This is a sure fire hit with duck breast, roasted to medium rare.
May 28, 2008
VARNER Chardonnay "Spring Ridge Vineyard-Amphitheatre Block" Santa Cruz Mountains 2006 ($37) Jim Varner stopped in yesterday with his '06 Chardonnays. Once again they set the standard for classy, perfectly-proportioned, intense California Chardonnay. Our favorite for drinking right now is the "Amphitheatre." (The Varners have one vineyard, and from it make three Chardonnays from different blocks.) Aromas of Pippin apples, orange marmalade, tangerine and cocoa butter pop up in a perfectly understated way. Taste is more of the same, really, with a touch of caramel and preserved lemon. High acid, big-boned, and nicely fit.
June 23, 2008 
(Return Engagement)
CL Pinot Noir "Armagh Vineyard" Sonoma Coast 2005
($35) shows the "savage" quality this vineyard seemingly imparts into its wines (Pinots and Syrahs). If you're at "Armagh," you're a hop skip and a jump from the Pacific Ocean...can practically hear the sea from there. Co-Owner/Winemaker Dave Lattin nailed this one, combining real ripe California fruitiness with the spice, rose, gamey, tobacco flavors of excellent Pinot Noir. Ample dark fruits, sweet smoke and oil cured olive note makes for a delicious drink...ESPECIALLY with a little tea-smoked duck. YUM.
May 27, 2008 
CAPIAUX Pinot Noir “Garys’ Vineyard” Santa Lucia Highlands 2006 ($42). Owner/Winemaker Sean Capiaux is one of our favorite Pinot producers in California. His style is a) fruit forward nose b) varietally true (smells and tastes like Pinot), c) lush, intense, silky mouthfeel and d) very good upon release with a big “upside” if cellared for a year. Sean’s “Gary’” Pinot is, once again, the most ready-to-drink Pinot in his collection of single vineyard wines (check out his 2006 “Widdoes Vineyard” Russian River Valley Pinot, $40. In stock as well, and very good too). Capiaux “Garys'” tastes of raspberry coulis, allspice, maple, tobacco and juicy ruby grapefruit. To reiterate, it’s good to drink now provided you use nice, big glasses suited to Pinot Noir (decanting doesn’t hurt either). Only 372 cases made.
May 24, 2008
RUSINA Petite Sirah Alexander Valley 2006 ($31) is ridiculously good for the price. I tasted it last month, 
and opened one up last night for my taste two. So, I have the pleasure of tasting as I write. First off, this is one of dem wines that coats the glass once you swirl, leaving a blue-purple sheet on the glass. This is when you know it's a teeth stainer. Nose is black pepper, raspberry and black cherry liqueurs, malt. Tons of very ripe fruit in the mouth, really big, AND (wonderfully) it's still very well balanced. You want more and more and more. I think this is very special wine, and merits a $45 price tag. Only 150 cases made. Local customer/friend John D. came by mid-wine scribe with a warm tri-tip sandwich. We ate it with a big sip of Rusina Petite. Sometimes you just feel lucky. 10% Zin in this Petite adds a little zing. 33% new Hungarian oak explains the malt/pleasing musk note. Rusina: the Roman goddess called upon by ancient farmers to protect their fields and vineyards.
May 16, 2008
SKYLARK Grenache, Sonoma County 2006 ($28) competes with T-Vine as the most delicious California Grenaches we've ever had. One of the darkest, richest Grenache wines we've had, we taste blackberry and raspberry liqueur, pie spices, anise and some dark chocolate. This powerful and supple red tastes of good ol' California sunshine with its full body and easy to please nature. Nothing wrong with that! The owners and winemakers of Skylark are co-wine directors of the fabulous San Franciso restaurant Boulevard. They know what they're doing.
May 13, 2008
We tasted two exceptional wines from the new label Sierra Madre Vineyard the other day. Winemaker Steve Rasmussen (he made the awesome Talley Vineyard wines for years and years) visited the shop, poured these, and told us about them. We're excited to have them for you now.
SIERRA MADRE VINEYARD Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley 2006 ($31) is cool climate, full treatment Chardonnay that captures the ying-yang between strong winemaking and high natural acidity. It's all here, friends, and it's GOOD. Heavy cream, green apple, fresh lemon, decadent toasty barrel. This ample, bright, full-bodied Chardonnay will please any palate that likes fine, rich white wine. Only 150 cases made.
SIERRA MADRE VINEYARD Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 2006 ($42) captures the best Santa Barbara County Pinot flavor. Cherry preserves, wild thyme, bay leaf, pie spices, black olive, and complimentary vanilla toast flavors from the French oak make this a complete, complex, delicious, authentic Pinot Noir. 375 cases made.
April 7, 2008
B. KOSUGE Pinot Noir "The Shop" Carneros 2006 ($34). Fans of the 2005 vintage (and we found many as we sold this wine last year) will be extremely happy with this next vintage. It's as delicious, if not even more, than last year. If you're new to this wine, and enjoy excellent California Pinot Noir, get it. "The Shop" packs everything that's good about Carneros Pinot into the bottle: bright aromatics, sweet cherry, silky mouthfeel, juicy mid palate and simply delicious. Byron Kosuge, Owner/Winemaker, has a nice piece of land (next to a farming work shop) for this very fairly priced, easy-to-love Pinot Noir.
April 29, 2008
Two bad-ass Syrahs for lovers of not just this grape, but of very good Cal red wine in general:
CULLER Syrah "Griffin's Lair" Sonoma Coast 2005 ($40). This vineyard, east of Highway 101 between Petaluma and Novato, makes wild, spicy, intense, beguiling Syrah and Pinot Noir. Karen Culler's 2005 Griffin's Lair boasts more sweet berry/cherry and less cool weather gaminess than any other Griffin's Lair that I've ever had. Black cherry and blueberry and complimented by dark chocolate and tobacco, allspice and black olive. It's 
more lush than it is penetrating. It's a style I feel comfortable recommending to Syrah and non-Syrah fans alike.
PARAS VINEYARD Syrah Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2005 ($42) is deep, smoky, bursting with blackberries and black cherries, is wondefully expansive in the mouth and boasts a 30 second finish. From the top of Mount Veeder, Paras has crafted yet another superbly rich, delicious red wine here. No-brainer, BRW fans.
April 29, 2008
FOXEN Sangiovese "Volpino" Santa Ynez Valley 2005 ($31). You'll see Sangiovese in the shop as often as, oh, maybe Carmenère. Not that many that cut the mustard as far as we're concerned. We tasted the latest from Foxen Winery the other day, and this Sangiovese truly impressed us. Volpino means "little fox" in Italian (and, I just learned, is a breed of dog...small fluffy white type). 22% Merlot, 1/4 new French oak. I like the snazzy oaky nose and fruit-forward personality. Taste black wild cherry, Sangiovese tanginess (but not tart), slightly smoky, black peppercorns, new leather, tobacco, red roses and tobacco. The Merlot takes away the rusticity, so it's just a little chewy. It's a "food wine" certainly, but I'd also be happy drinking a healthy glass-full before I moved to the veal chop. About 700 cases made.
April 25, 2008
Londer Chardonnay "Corby Vineyard" Anderson Valley 2006 ($29). Cool climate Mendocino vineyard, in the heart of Anderson Valley, springs forth a strong, bright, superb designer Chardonnay. Flavors of Bosc pear, lemon wedges, Kaffir lime, caramel, tangerine here. It's rich and pleasantly tangy both: a great combination. 80% Malolactic, 20% new French oak, 389 cases made.
April 21, 2008
Very good and vastly underrated, PARADIGM Merlot, Oakville, Napa Valley 2004 ($45) is a Heidi Barrett-made wine (she's made Paradigm since their first vintage of 1991). I tasted the Merlot next to the Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon recently, and hands-down, the Merlot is more delicious (and about $20 less per bottle).
The Paradigm vineyard gently slopes toward the mountains on the west side of the Valley. Here it is, in its quiet, winter phase, respendant with wild mustard. The land here gives power and complexity to the wines, and Heidi Barrett has the perfect touch to get let the wine express itself accordingly.
That written, the 2004 Paradigm Merlot is most hearty (the vintage explains this) and has the texture and structure that makes me think supple Cabernet. Taste black cherries (the kind that stain your fingers for two days), bakers' chocolate, a sizzling beef roast fresh from the oven and the earthy sensations of beautiful, wild mushrooms picked that day. We've seen Merlot make a comeback the last couple of years, and it's because there are more & more superb, rich Merlots to drink like the Paradigm. 7% Cab Sauv in this Merlot. 840 cases made.
April 3, 2008
Delicious, authentic Syrah just arrived called BLUE HAT CELLARS Syrah, Napa Valley 2004 ($31). Neil Koch, the young man who owns the label, makes it, and wears a blue hat a lot (it's a baseball cap, he says). The Syrah comes from "Juliana Vineyards" in Pope Valley, just east and above the Valley floor. 20% Merlot and 3% Cab Franc blended in lends itself well to the final wine-takes away the savageness of the Syrah grape. This wine boasts loads of tasty blueberry jam, pomegranate, pie spice and pine forest. The substantial ripeness is balanced with good Syrah acidity. I recommend the Blue Hat to lovers of Syrah and general, and think it's a fine introduction to the grape for a Cal/French style. Just enough, but not too much, authentic Syrah flavor.
Only 135 cases made.
March 31, 2008
SCHOLIUM PROJECT "La Severità di Bruto - Farina Vineyards" 2006 ($45 net). 100% Sauvignon Blanc from this truly special vineyard for the grape on Sonoma Mountain. "LSB," as we call it, grapes come from the steep, rocky, hillside portion of "Farina," and the resulting wine is as expected: full of citrus zest, stony aromas, white stony fruits, and zingy intensity. La Severita di Bruto's power-source is the land, moreso than most wines we enjoy. No oak influence (fermented and aged in half steel barrels, half neutral French barrels), no butter nor caramel here. This "designer Sauv Blanc" is a sure thing on a fine restaurant wine list, where the staff can pair "LSB" with perfect tastes (goat and sheep cheeses, herbaceous white fish, sashimi). You can do it too! Put in fridge for just 15 minutes and play with such flavors as I suggest above. Only 125 cases made.
June 18, 2007
MALDONADO CHARDONNAY "Los Olivos Vineyard" Napa Valley 2005 ($49) is perhaps the best under 
$50 Chardonnay in California. No foolin'. From the southern-most slice of Napa Valley, near Carneros, where it's relatively cold forNapa Valley. Prime Chardonnay territory...can't help but keep a good tang in thewine.
Seekers of rich Chardonnay with good acidity to boot must buy some Maldonado (you may have...previous vintages, which we loved and sold as well). Caramel custard, lemon zest, fresh & steaming croissant, white chocolate, and that tang to tie it all together. Wonderfully made. Can go with myriad dishes, but best to me is truffle-stuffed, roast chicken breast with a creamy, buttery sauce. Rice pilaf.
March 25, 2008
Lovers of big, bold spicy Napa red blends should grab some ROCKET SCIENCE Proprietary Red Wine, Napa Valley 2005 ($41). Blend is 1/3 Cab Sauv, 1/3 Syrah, 1/4 Merlot, rest Franc, Petit Verdot and Tannat. While most blends are on the smooth and friendly side, Rocket Science packs a bigger punch of chewy tannins. We taste blueberry coulis, black pepper, dark raspberry, just a whiff of lavender and vanilla-toast from the nice oak. Really good now and even better come late 2009 we think. Rocket Science is the second label of Caldwell, the exceptional $100 wine from John Caldwell's vineyard just east of Napa-town. Rocket Science, like Caldwell, is made by the most talented Philippe Melka.
March 20, 2008
McPRICE MYERS Syrah "Larner Vineyard" Santa Ynez Valley 2005 ($31). Taste the sunshine in the rich fruit and the spicy/savage edge of quality Syrah in this designer, new label from Santa Barbara County. Big ripeness but still in a more Rhone style. This may be the Syrah that I'd take home for dinner before any other. 228 cases made.
March 19, 2008
MAURITSON Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2006 ($26). Owner/Winemaker Clay Mauritson and his team have, once again, captured the perfect balance between jammy fruit, alluring spice and silky texture. This Zin is so darn delicious and almost too easy to drink. This is the kind of wine I could pour tiny glass after tiny glass until, WHOOPS, I've drunk the whole bottle. Bursting with berries and cherries, pleasantly jammy, and smooth as a Kobe Bryant jumper, the Mauritson '06 Zin is definitely case-purchase-worthy.
March 10, 2008
BAKER LANE Pinot Noir "Hurst Vineyard" Sonoma Coast 2006 ($38) intensity over brute force is the name of the game with this classic cool-climate Pinot Noir. From vineyards near the town of Sebastopol, not far at all from the Pacific Ocean. This is very good Pinot Noir from start to finish. Smells of wild cherry, kaffir lime, tree sap, cherry preserves, allspice and haybarn. Ripeness and tang ying and yang in the mouth, giving mouth watering pleasure and juicy, delicious fruitiness. Fans of the best/better Oregon Pinots and Burgundies will like the Baker Lane the most. Cedar plank wild salmon please. Don't forget the wild mushrooms.
March 8, 2008
LE PETIT VICE Red Wine 2005 ($50) is a blend of 60% Russian River Valley Syrah and 40% Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This "other label" for Vice Versa Winery (makers of a very special Napa Cabernet, which we sell also sell...read about it here) captures cooler climate Syrah's wild blueberry and spice AND mountain Cabs breadth, force and earthiness. Ultimately, Le Petit Vice stars the rich, sun-soaked California fruitiness. Luscious, liqueur-like texture, flavors of mulberry and blackberry, black pepper, mocha and cedar. I love the luxurious fruit and spicy, earthy, judiciously oaked flavors (complexity) of this wine! Food friendly, too. I think a grilled Filet Mignon with roasted potatoes would be especially tasty! Made by Paul Hobbs for Quebec resident and cool guy Patrice Breton. 777 cases made.
February 28, 2008
ORIN SWIFT "The Prisoner" Napa Valley 2006 ($35). Been out since November, but just brought it in. Found it too recently bottled and tannic when tasted last year. Every month in bottle makes this wine a little better, a little smoother, and the "Prisoner" flavor so many of you have bought and loved from Back Room Wines in past year. Once again, Zinfandel-based with Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cab Sauv and Charbono to round it out. Once again, tastes like savory Cherries Jubilee with the cinnamon and a little black pepper. Those tannins I mentioned are bigger and more noticeable than most vintages, but it's OK. A little air smooths it out. Best Prisoner yet? I don't know, but it's just as good as any. I leave "best yet" reviews to you. I just know it's GOOD.
February 16, 2008
Owner/Winemaker Terry Bering just brought us a case of
CASTALIA Pinot Noir "Rochioli Vineyard" Russian River Valley 2006 ($50 net). He's particularly proud of this vintage, and after tasting it with him I can see why. This Pinot boasts loads of stuffing AND healthy acidity. It's going to age well. In fact, Terry insists one decants two hours ahead of time before drinking, if cellaring until 2010 is not an option. Taste the bright wild cherry, raspberry candies, and uplifting acidity. Pie spice and truffle complement this fruit forward, complex, long-finishing, very youthful Pinot Noir. Special stuff, especially if you can cellar and drink from '10 through '15. Only 385 cases made...we got three.
February 13, 2008
Quickly following the 2004 vintage, the 2005 T-Vine Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($37) is just more of the same, big, juicy, blueberry/blackberry yumminess that we come to expect from T-Vine wines EVERY TIME. (And, quite amazingly, they deliver every time.) This wine starts with cocoa-sprinkled blueberries and very dark raspberries, then moves into mocha, black pepper, espresso and a little maple. This moderately tannic, supple, big flavored red is good drinking from now through 2012. T-Vine is the only winery that Back Room Wines carries every wine, every vintage. It's astounding how consistent the T-Vine wines are.
February 10, 2008
For the past year, there's been a buzz in these parts about "Shake Ridg
e Ranch" in Amador County. Some of our favorite wineries (Favia, Tallulah, Courier) have or are going to produce wines from here. Maybe even more exciting than the treats above are the wines from the vineyard owners themselves, Anne Kraemer and family. The wines are called YORBA, named for their ancestor who staked claim to this land in the 19th century (and Angelina Yorba, the family's great grandmother.) "Shake Ridge" is 1700+ feet high and planted over myriad soil types. The grapes coming off here are pretty bitchin' as the cuttings were selected with artisanal care and the land is cared for with love and experience by Anne.
YORBA Barbera "Shake Ridge" Amador County 2005 ($27) is an intense, glowing example of this oft-marginal grape (to me). Grapefruit and hard cherry candies, white pepper, raspberry coulis and lavender come to mind. Fruitier and bigger than most Barberas, the Yorba doesn't get bitter as many of them do. It's really good!
YORBA Zinfandel "Shake Ridge" Amador County 2005 ($29) is fruit forward, very fresh and bold, tasted of cherry compote and more summer berries with a whiff of pepper-spice. This one is about the fruit. Ken Bernards (of Ancien Winery) makes these. Roughly 200 cases made of each Yorba wine.
February 8, 2008
T-VINE Zinfandel Napa Valley 2005 ($33) Always popular here because it's always so good, T-Vine Zinfandel is back again. Just released 2005 vintage. Mostly "Frediani Vineyard" near Calistoga. The T-Vine knowledgable will not be surprised by the large mouthful of blue and blackberry here. It's almost jammy...more like half-dried berries and cherries on the vine/tree kinda ripeness. Black pepper and cinnamon toast flavors too. Medium-full body this vintage. Balance is nice here as the kiss of acidity freshens the palate on the long, juicy finish. Happy to have it, happy to sell it to you and make you happy.
February 2, 2008
Winemaker David Mahaffey just dropped off a case of MISS OLIVIA BRION Pinot Noir "Heron Lake Vineyard" Wild Horse Valley 2006 ($38). We expect this to be the first case of many he delivers this year. Our first taste (besides barrel sample) of this vintage was just before Christmas and we loved it. Wild cherry, bright orange-fleshed plum, framboise, coriander, white pepper, wild thyme and ruby grapefruit flavors dance in and out of the wine. Silky, intense and succulent, this very pretty and formidable Pinot Noir is drinking great now and will get significantly better as the months go by. We're pleased to be the first merchant to have the 2006 Miss Olivia Brion.
January 29, 2008
Mark Oberschulte was in last Friday to pour, at Back Room Blow Out XXV, his OBERSCHULTE Syrah "Monte Rosso Vineyard" Sonoma Valley 2005 ($37). We last sold his 2002 Syrah, a rich, luxurious bottle of red. Then, the wine warehouse fire in Vallejo happened and the remainder of his '02 along with his '03 and '04 went poof. Was a pleasure to taste and thoroughly enjoy the comeback wine, his 2005.
All "Monte Rosso" as Mark is a vineyard manager for Gallo, now the vineyard owner (formerly Louis Martini, for whom Mark worked before the sale.) This is very California style Syrah with abundant blueberry, cocoa, black cherry and black pepper flavors. All is buttressed by sweet oak (not too much) and a good backbone. One taster last Friday said it best: "Doesn't express the unique qualities of Syrah, but it's totally delicious, and that's what's most important." This is Daniel Dawson, and I approve that quote. 218 cases made.
November 19, 2007
TALLULAH Sauvignon Blanc "La Femme d'Argent" Sonoma Mountain 2006 ($26) comes from "Farina Vineyard," a spot that's quickly gaining the reputation of growing the best SB in the country (in our minds). Scholium Project, a Back Room favorite, makes amazing Sauv Blanc from here as well.
Tallulah, a new designer-winery making tiny lots of good wine, has made an outstanding wine for a really good value. The style is CRISP, TANGY, MINERALLY, RACY and PLEASINGLY TAUT. This is one of those wines that grabs and tickles the gums with acidity and zest. You'll taste green apples, grapefruit, lemongrass, lemon thyme...you get the idea. Not often you get such a long, impressive finish for twenty something dollars, but here you do. A scant 90 cases made. Can't recommend this wine highly enough.
January 8, 2008
Not that many merchants get DEHLINGER Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2005 ($36) like they used to. We're pleased to have it once again for this vintage is as good, or better, than any previous vintage. Great acidity reminds us of Chablis (warm vintage). Sweet cream and tropical undertones is a nice reminder that it's from The Sunshine State. Taste lots of apricots, lemon cream, Meyer lemon, stones and oak that complements the wine rather than overtakes it. We like the tang in this wine. It offers the perfect ying-yang with the tropical and citrus fruitiness.
December 15, 2007 (Return engagement) 
COURIER Sauvignon Blanc "Ryan's Vineyard" Napa Valley 2006 ($45) is the premier release for Jason Berthold, protege in winemaking to Abe Schoener of Scholium Project. Jason't day job is Sous Chef at The French Laundry. I doubt Jason sleeps much. This is very special Sauvignon Blanc, melding complexity, intensity, richness and acidity all together. Nose first screams candied grapefruit essence, then quickly opens up to peaches in summer, lime blossoms and impressive minerality for a Napa wine. This won't overwhelm you with power. Rather, it slowly seduces until it takes you and finally leaves you wanting more. That could be a problem as only 47 cases were made.
November 24, 2007
CORE "Hard Core" Santa Barba County 2005 ($29). Owner/Winemaker Dave Corey drives up from Santa Barbara often to pour his wines for folks and deliver. He loves his work as much as anyone I know in the wine biz. His energy, enthusiasm and winemaking skill show themselves in his delicious wines I think. "Hard Core" is 60% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This drinks not so much like Mourvedre than just a good, rich, spicy red wine. It's forward and giving in its fruit, very juicy, full of black pepper/allspice/licorice spices, mouth coating and extremely tasty. Parker agrees! He said, "the brilliant 2005 Hard Core boasts terrific aromatics of black currants, cherries, incense, spice, underbrush, and Provencal herbs. Most important from a consumer’s perspective, the (Core) wines are very interesting and deliver loads of pleasure. All of them possess terrific aromatics."
November 24, 2007
FOXEN Chardonnay "Tinaquaic Vineyard" Santa Maria Valley 2006 ($34). Best known for their zooming Pinot Noirs, Foxen goes well beyond this with Syrah, Bordeaux grapes, Chenin Blanc, and CHARDONNAY. The sister grape of Pinot Noir is our feature this season. We tasted this last month and WOW did we dig it. Reminds me of winemakers' testament that "it's about the fruit" as a panoply of fruit sensations abound in this Chard. Get peaches, apricots, lemon-lime (or as Sprite calls it: limeon), grapefuit-pineapple (pinefruit?). The fruit cocktail is buttressed by minerals and sweet cream butter. Refreshing, substantial and irresistible, the Foxen is one delicious Chardonnay. 750 cases made.
November 5, 2007
ENGEL FAMILY VINEYARD Merlot "Rock Mountain Vineyard" Napa Valley 2004 ($40 net). Perfect for the shop! Stud winemaker (Bob Foley), tiny production (130 cases), family vineyard (terraced, hillside vines near Schramsberg Winery, northern Napa Valley) and DARN GOOD. 100% Merlot with structure, power and finesse. Black fruits, Indian spices, cocoa, vanilla-toast, mulberry, pomegranate. This is really good, and ANOTHER reason to drink Merlot again. "This Merlot is the equivalent to the Buccella Cab to my taste" one esteemed customer of ours states. You may not agree with his statement, but you get the drift.
October 31, 2007
Elyse Winery, located just south of the town of Yountville, is a personal favorite of mine to visit when I have out of town guests. Casual and unpretentious, the dogs and cat often run out to greet visitors, and the focus is definitely on their great selection of delicious wines, known for power and concentration. We happily offer you three tasty selections from their current offerings.
ELYSE Zinfandel "Morisoli Vineyard" Napa Valley 2005 ($34) is their "flagship" wine, if you will. The first wine they produced, and perhaps the one they are best known for, it is always a big, rich, ripe expression of Zinfandel. Definitely an interesting blend in the bottle: 87% Zinfandel, 13% combination of Petite Sirah, Black Empress, Grand Noir, Muscat Hamburg, Alicante Bouschet, Napa Gamay, Carignan and Syrah. This "big zin" is quite dense on the palate, with lots of briary dark berry, licorice, and dark chocolate. It is suprisingly food friendly however, and goes really well with roast meats and stews, and tomato dishes as well.
ELYSE Zinfandel Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino 2004 ($28) is a one time offering from this vineyard, and it is another rich and robust Zinfandel in the Elyse house style. Blended with 22% Petite Sirah, this is a mouthful. Powerful, jammy, low acid, smoky, and spicy, there is tons of sweet berry fruit. Nice bit of tannin in the finish. This is another wine that certainly benefits from ample amounts of air.
ERNA SCHEIN SYRAH "Alder Springs Vineyard-Homage to Ed Oliveira" Mendocino 2005 ($57) captures the essence of Rhone-meets-California Syrah. Lovers of the best, big Cal Syrahs should have a few bottles of this wine in their collection. Certainly for the initiated, this Syrah has deep blueberry, lavender & violet, black pepper, smoke, melted dark chocolate, candied ginger...so much going on. I'm a fan of such wines, so I must admit that THIS is the wine of the group that gets me most excited. It's youthful and clumsy at the end, so this, too, begs for decanting or cellaring for one to three years. 484 cases made.
June 20, 2007
We're very pleased to be one of the very few wine merchants to off you the wines of ARNOT ROBERTS.
ARNOT ROBERTS SYRAH "Griffin's Lair" Sonoma Coast 2005 ($63 net) Very cool vineyard makes for a "Syrah lover's Syrah" here. Gamey, kalamata olive, dry green & black peppercorns, lavender smells make for a very Northern Rhone style Syrah. Boasts tannins that truly beg for time to unwind. Recommended to cellar until at least 2009. 75 cases made.
October 19, 2006
LORING PINOT NOIRS. 2005 vintage. All are priced the same: $48 a bottle. All we get of each is 6 or 12 bottles. Thoughts on these wines: we tasted two of them yesterday, "Brosseau" and "Garys'". Dramatic style change in the 2005's from the 2004's. These two are under 14% alcohol and show the nuance and delicacy of Pinot Noir. Surprising, since Loring became the poster wine for overdone Pinot just this summer when the New York Times' Eric Asimov took them to the woodshed for their very ripe style. Well, these 2005's are nothing of the sort. Not saying better nor worse. It is what it is. Tasting notes: "Brosseau," from Chalone AVA, is pretty, perfectly ripe, juicy and very much on the red fruit side of Pinot. "Garys" from Santa Lucia Highlands is the a Burgundy wannabe in the best way. It's soil-driven with ample pie spice, truffle and autumn leaves mixed in with red and black cherries. These are rare, beautifully crafted Pinots that belong in any Pinot-head's collection.
Now then, this is what we have, all are $48/bottle:
LORING PINOT NOIR "Brosseau Vineyard" Chalone 2005
LORING PINOT NOIR "Garys' Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2005
LORING PINOT NOIR "Hungry Like The Llama" California 2005
LORING PINOT NOIR "Durrell Vineyard" Sonoma Coast 2005
LORING PINOT NOIR "Keefer Ranch Vineyard " Russian River (Green) Valley 2005
LORING PINOT NOIR "Rosella's Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2005
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