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Wines of France Archive
June 3, 2008
MAS AMIEL Rosé "Le Plaisir" Côtes du Roussillon 2007 ($16)
I try not to play favorites, but for the sake of the story I choose the Mas Amiel as my favorite Rosé in the store today. Look at the brillian color. How can you not be drawn? Southwestern France, blend of Grenache, Carignane and Syrah. Combination on raspberry and strawberry essence and ruby grapefruit. It's loaded with fruit and unmistakably dry.
July 5, 2008
CELESTIN BLONDEAU Sancerre "Cuvée des Moulins Bâles" 2005, $21. 2005 was such a good year for Sancerre. The wines are ripe but not overly so, we find. Good acidity. The Blondeau hits the grapefruit, green apple and lemon thyme notes. Zingy, as we like our Sancerres to be!
MATTES-SABRAN Rosé Vin de Pays d'Oc 2007, $14. As good as it ever was, and that's pretty good. Mourvedre and Syrah in here. Moderately fruity, not exactly earthy but you do taste the south of France. Dry herbs and spice and everything nice. Drink it cold with BBQ chicken thighs.
November 7, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
One of my favorite house wines right now is the CALVET-THUNEVIN "Cuvée Constance" Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2004 ($15). This young project is the brainchild of Jean-Luc Thunevin and Jean-Roger Calvet and is limited to only a few hectares of old vines planted on black schist in the town of Maury on the Mediterranean Sea near Spain. Jean-Luc Thunevin made his first mark on the wine world with (what is now) the cult wine Chateau Valandraud in Bordeaux. Valandraud is recognized as one of the first “garage” wines of Bordeaux. In 2001, he teamed up with Jean-Roger Calvet, a local winemaker who was doing great work with Carignan and Grenache, to produce their first vintage. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 10% Carignane, and is very concentrated on the palate. Big berry (black and red), black pepper, and richness.....a suprising amount of depth for the price.
February 27, 2008
CHAMPAGNES THAT HAVE COME & GONE:
Jean Milan "Carte Blanche" Brut, Grand Cru M.V. $43.00
2003 and 2004 Chardonnay. Crisp, high minerality, crisp lovely fruit.
Larmandier-Bernier Brut "Tradition" M.V. $49.00
Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Noirs from Vertus (20%)
Extremely dry and very pure. Taste the lemon zest and minerality.
Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru M.V. $53.00
Vallee de la Marne, all 2003 vintage. Burgundy (Chablis) like ripe nose from the hot vintage.
Buttered bread, quince, unusually rich for this wine.
February 15, 2008
DOMAINE RAYMOND USSEGLIO Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Girard" 2005 ($42)
Raymond, not to be confused with Pierre, Usseglio lives on the edge of the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, on the road to Cour-thezon. Half his vines are situated near that road in the lieu-dit “La Crau” and the other half on the hill across the road from the actual ruins of the new castle of the Pope (Chateauneuf du Pape). He has the good fortune to have very old vines. The average age for his Chateauneuf vines is between 50 and 60 years old, and the Cuvee Imperiale is 100-year old vines. The "Girard" is about 70% Grenache with Mourvedre most of the balance, then Syrah and a field blend of old vines the remainder.
Parker: "The Cuvée Girard (the Weygandt cuvee) is dense, rich, with extra levels of fruit, glycerin, texture, and length. It is a deep, structured, muscular Chateauneuf du Pape that will require 1-3 years of bottle age and drink well for 15 years. Readers should note that the Cuvee Girard is essentially the same blend as the Chateauneuf du Pape cuvee but is a selection made by American importer Peter Weygandt that is bottled without any filtration. Tasting them side by side each year is an education. There is always a significant difference in texture, weight, and aromatics that favors the Cuvee Girard."
June 26, 2007
CLUSEL-ROCH winery in Côte-Rôtie makes really good wine. So good, they're typically very hard to get. Don't have much, but enough to write you about the CLUSEL-ROCH Côte-Rôtie 2004 ($54). The Côte-Rôtie, as powerful as it is, has a soft side too. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, lavender, black pepper, olive. Very complex and forthcoming now. Have with game, chicken drumsticks, mushroom/caramelized onion casserole and such.
February 27, 2008
DOMAINE BERTAGNA Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Nuits "Les Dames Huguettes" 2005 ($28) has all the brightness and penetrating flavor that makes Burgundy special. When it's done right in the "secondary" regions of Burgundy, it can be good AND good value. We poured this one Friday night and it was very well received even though it was (and still is) rather tight. Lots of griotte (wild red cherry), sprinkle of tarragon and thyme, white pepper, sweet citrus notes. I imagine it will be drinking best come late fall '06, when cassoulet season comes around again. Worth buying a couple bottles and holding 'til then, for it'll be gone from here well before the frost is on the pumpkin.
February 5, 2008
DOMAINE FERRANDO Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Colombis" 2005 ($63)
In the 1920’s a pharmacist from Avignon Fernand Serre purchaced some vineyards south of Chateauneuf du Pape in the area, where a liux-dit Les Serres was named like himself. He built cellars in the fields and a new domain was born “Domaine de Saint Préfert”. After him another generation Carnille and Suzanne Serre took over. In 2002 Isabel Ferrando, formerly a banker, purchased the domain which has 13.2 ha. AOC Chateauneuf du Pape. The vines are very old, some of them more than 100 years. Several plots at the estate has to be replanted and this long term work has been started and will continue for years to come.
Isabel Ferrando gets advice from Philippe Cambi known as the advisor for several estates in Chateauneuf du Pape. Together they have started a kind of revolution for the domain. Their first vintage 2003 has got remarkable notes from wine experts.
Isabell Ferrando puchased two additional parcels of land to create Domaine Ferrrando, one piece of land (1.3 ha.) with a sandy terroir and another (1.2 ha.) les Rouix with clay the yield will complete Cuvée Colombis.
Robert Parker: "Exquisite nose of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, licorice, spice box, and a note of resiny pine forest. It is full-bodied, layered, multi-dimensional, rich and heady. It should be at its best between 2009 and 2020."
January 1, 2008
Just opened and drank some CLOS SAINT-JEAN Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vielles Vignes-Special Cuvée" 2005 ($40 net). Yes, party people, this is one spicy, robust, rich, sweet-tasting Chateauneuf. All my favorite Chateauneuf descriptions come to mind with this beauty: black licorice, clove, mint, espresso, blueberry pie, pipe tobacco, allspice, fivespice. This is very spicy, very strong, and too easy to like a lot!
CLOS SAINT-JEAN Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vielles Vignes-Special Cuvée" 2005 ($40 net)
In the winter of 2001, sadly, the father of Pascal and Vincent Maurel passed away. The two brothers took over management of the family domaine, with some of the best situated vines in all of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, all in the area of La Crau, starting in 2002. One of the first things they did was hire Philippe Cambie as consulting oenologist/viticulturist, and he is, as is well-known to readers of Robert Parker’s writings, one of the greatest oenologists of Chateauneuf. Up until September 8, the year 2002 was one of the most promising vintages in recent times, but again, sadly, there was the disastrous flood that ruined the vintage. The Maurels sold off the entire crop to negociants, and made no wine (a famous oenologist hired for nothing). But then came 2003 and with one year in total control the brothers and Mr. Cambie were ready, and they absolutely nailed the 2003 vintage down to perfection. What they did was a little counter-intuitive, following the calamity of 2002, and took enormous courage—they waited, and waited, to pick. So even though 2003 was a hot year with high sugars early they did not succumb to the temptation to get in the crop before it might rain, but instead held off. As Mr. Cambie told me, they started picking late in September, when virtually everyone else had finished. The result of this gamble is bringing joy to all who love Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The wines all display supreme physiological and phenolic ripeness, without notes of surmaturity or over-ripeness. They are all deeply color, rich and profound, even at an early stage.
Parker: "The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape, which is basically a blend of 75% Grenache aged in tank or large foudres and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault, is exquisite, deeper, and richer than even the impressive 2006. Dense plum/ruby/purple with notes of incense, melted licorice, blackberry, and sweet cherry, the wine is peppery, spicy, rich, full-bodied, layered and chewy. It is a superb example of Chateauneuf du Pape that should drink well for 10-15 years."
June 7, 2007
Chardonnay lovers of all types do, will or would love the DEUX MONTILLE Rully 2003 ($28). This label was started with the 2003 vintage by Hubert de Montilles children, Alix (the daughter) and Etienne. Rully, in the Cote Chalonnaise, southern Burgundy, is known for their relatively fleshy, forward, lip-smackingly good whites. This is one of the best that we've tried from the area. Apricot, fresh sweet butter, caramel, mineral, orange zest, lovely richness, and as stated above, lip-smackingly good! We sometimes sneak a bottle of this into customers' California Chardonnay shipments, and no complaints yet.
September 7, 2007
HUNOLD Pinot Gris Alsace 2005 ($16) is a great example of delicious Alsatian Pinot Gris. There is a honeyed nose with peach, green apple, and white flowers. The palate is clean, rich, creamy, and dry, with a long and powerful finish. This is a great wine to pair with foie gras, game, and roast white meats.
October 11, 2007
MAS DE BOISLAUZON Côtes du Rhône Villages 2005 ($17) is just about a perfect representation of high quality Southern Rhone red. Big flavor but not too much. Ripe yet not jammy, fine combination of spice, earth and herbaceousness here. Curious what's meant by garrigue, the French term for the sun-roasted wild herbs growing in the rocky Southern French ground? This nose is your lesson, and a tasty one at that. Mas de Boislauzon is always a great "classic" producer (their Chateauneuf-du-Pape, for example, is always spot-on and one of the better priced super producers). This "baby" Chateauneuf feeds your Rhone Valley desire. If you don't have this desire, you should!
November 23, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
Southern French red fan that I am, we enjoyed a bottle of Clot de L'Oum "La Compagnie des Papillons" Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2005 ($22) with our Filet Mignons the night before Thanksgiving. 45% Grenache, 45% Carignane, and 10% Syrah, there is a lot of substance and structure in this wine. Big notes of rustic wild dark berry, iron and mineral, smoked meat and cracked peppercorn, with a hint of wild herbs to round out the palate. The wine opened right up with a quick decanting, and the rich comfort food pairings are endless. Roast meats, braised stews, lamb shanks......this is definitely a wine I intend to enjoy throuh the winter with all of my favorite cold weather comfort foods.
November 30, 2007
Duval-Leroy "Cuvée Paris" M.V. $45.00
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Fruit from all the regions.
Painting by LeRoy Neiman. Very fleshy, juicy and easy to drink.
Mailly "L'Intemporelle" Grand Cru 2000 $90.00
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Montagne de Reims
Huge flavors, very strong, penetrating acidity, great crispness.
Pascal Doquet Le Mesnil, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru M.V. $52.00
Blend of 1995, 96 and 97 Chardonnay. Côtes des Blancs
Bottle bouquet a la Krug. Sherry and roast almond notes.
Chartogne-Taillet "Cuvée St.-Anne" Magnum M.V. $99.00
Equal parts Pinot Noir & Chardonnay with a little Pinot Meunier. 80% 2003, 20% 2002.
On the crisper side for Montagne de Reims Pinot Noir based.
Vilmart "Grand Cellier" M.V. $69.00
Two thirds Chardonnay, one third Pinot Noir. Half 2004, quarter each 2002 and 2003. Montagne de Reims.
Rich, with saffron, brioche nose. Bright classic fruit. Best non-vintage "starter wine" for any Champagne house.
Pierre Peters "Cuvée Speciale" Brut, Grand Cru, Magnum 1999 $149.00 NET PRICED.
75 year old vines, single parcel, Grand Cru Chardonnay, Cotes des Blancs.
Rich & earthy, particularly for Peters. Mushrooms, cream, honeyed, BIG.
Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut, Grand Cru, Magnum 1998 ($135 net)
Vallee de la Marne. "Less overtly fruity but even moreprofound, with verbena and corn-muffin; incipient power on entry but then an abandoned crescendo of force and salty precision, leading to an almost peppery finish. Give
it the 3-5 years it needs and you’ll have something profound." Terry Theise
May 19, 2007
HERVE AZO Chablis "Vau de Vey" Premier Cru 2005 ($26/bottle) is an outstanding representation of Chablis. No oak, no butter, just a pure representation of the Chardonnay grape in a citrusy, minerally, crisp, palate-perking style. As a good Burgundy should, the "Vau de Vey" sneaks up on you with power and persistence. Lime zest, orange blossoms, grapefruit, chalk, and a twinge of fresh herbs come through in this well priced, high quality Burgundy. Bowl of mussels, shrimp boil, orjust a hunk of fresh goat cheese on crusty French bread would all match all too well.
January 15, 2007
LES CAILLOUX CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC 2005 (SOLD OUT) is 80% Roussanne and is fresh, pure, juicy, vibrant and could be the perfect wine to go with grilled sand dabs, or perhaps a nice piece of halibut. One more to mention here, Domaine André Brunel Côtes-du-Rhône "Cuvée Sommelongue" 2005 ($15) is an early candidate for "Value Wine of the Year." Very sweet berry flavors and a smack of peppercorn, lavender and tobacco make for a very delicious Rhone red with universal appeal. Rhone lovers looking for fine values should buy this by the case (10% off a case, by the way).
June 26 , 2007
CLUSEL-ROCH Condrieu 2005 is special. Cucumber and violet water, peach, melon, mineral. How a wine could be so delicate and so strong at the same time is amazing. As good as it is with oily fish (grilled sardines anyone?), I think a glass with nothing more than a beautiful sunset is a great match.
September 10, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
DOMAINE DE GRANGENEUVE "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes" Coteaux-du-Tricastin 2003 ($14) is half Syrah and half Grenache from 40+ year old vines in the southern Rhone Valley. It drinks in much more of a new world style, with ample fruit, pepper, lavender and herbs. I enjoyed a bottle of it last night with a grilled bone-in New York steak, wild rice, and a heirloom tomato salad. The wine was the perfect compliment.
June 27, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
We were up at the Etna house last weekend, and I opened a SANTA DUC Cairanne "Les Buissons" 2003 ($18) to serve with grilled pork tenderloin and portobello mushroom and vegetable kebabs. I enjoyed the wine, but for most of the rest of the group it was just a little too funky. As is typical of most 2003 French wines, it was ripe, and very concentrated. There was a lot going on with it - deep red fruits, liquer, old leather and funk, tobacco, mushroom, and iron, along with a healthy dose of Brett. Traditionalists will certainly appreciate it for itscomplexity, but this wine is not a particularly good match for those with California (and clean winemaking) leaning palates.
August 28, 2007
FREDERIC ESMONIN Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos Prieur" 2005 ($36) is a single vineyard, A.C. Gevrey from the stellar 2005 Burgundy vintage. Fruit comes from "Bas Clos Prieur" as this is the A.C. vineyard. "Clos Prieur," directly above, and directly below Mazis-Chambertin, is Premier Cru. We tried this wine the day after it arrived and liked it a lot. Come-hither nose of sweet plum and cherry, balsa wood, rose/lavender and light spice. In the mouth, the fruit is showing nicely...better than most well endowed 2005s at the moment. This wine offers an authentic Burgundy experience without the youthful hard edges. Will be drinking its best from 2009 to 2012.
Also in the shop: FREDERIC ESMONIN Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaux Saint-Jacques" Premier Cru 2005 ($50 net). Haven't tried it yet.
June 27, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
We certainly are not known for our Bordeaux selection, but when we find one we like this much, for such a great value, it certainly has a place on our racks. The CHATEAU AU PONT DE GUITRES Lalande-de-Pomerol 2003 ($26) is just such a wine. The blend is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, typical of a right bank wine. A product of the warm 2003 vintage, this particular wine is ripe and seductive, with flavors of raspberries and cocoa. It's drinking really well right now, and also could be cellared for a few years.
July 14, 2007
When Viognier is good, it's really goooooood. When it's $13/bottle, it's spectacular. If I've piqued your interest, give this a try: DOMAINE LA BASTIDE Viognier Vin de Pays d'Hauterive 2006 ($13/bottle). Southern France, where values run amok but finding the best gems takes a little effort and knowledge. We like the Viognier for the yellow grapefruit, light peach and mineral flavors classic to Northern Rhone Viognier, where it's unquestionably at its best. Apple and floral flavors in here too. Not particularly alcoholic: just right to show it's bright, ethereal qualities. Hardly sounds like I'm describing a $13 wine, does it? Buy a case.
December 5 , 2006
Clot de L'Oum Côtes du Rousillon Villages "Saint Bart - Vieilles Vignes" 2004 ($31) is a knife-and-fork red wine if there ever was one. This blend of Carignane, Syrah and Grenache boasts authentic aromas of dried thyme, rosemary and fennel. Then strong, dark chocolate and Turkish coffee. The palate delivers big fruit to complement the ongoing craziness that starts in the nose (see above) and a wallop of tannins. POW it goes. KABOOM. Youthful indeed! Then more flavors emerge, like truffle, tobacco and some French funk. This is a wine for lovers of the big southern French reds that sport a little wildness and don't apologize. Haven't yet had the pleasure, but my carnivore instinct thinks of a thick, grilled NY steak with a red wine/garlic compound butter on top and serve this "Clot de l'Oum" with it. That's a powerful meal. Don't order dessert after this one.
January 20, 2007
CLOS DU MONT-OLIVET CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 ($42). Persistent and intense come to mind here. The Southern Rhone was an extremely good vintage in the Southern Rhone, too. Top one or two vintages of the decade I imagine. We opened this Mont-Olivet '05 on a Friday night in March, and the consensus of the crowd was a resounding "YUM!" More red fruits than black, big brown and black spice component, cedar, tobacco, sandalwood, anise, clove and on and on. That written, the aromas and flavors will only expand with time in the cellar! We find this as solid as they come in a classic Chateauneuf.
July 28, 2007
One of the best "special bottle values" in the store is the CLOS ST. JEAN Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 ($41/btl.) We greatly anticipated its arrival after reading Mr. Parker's review (91 points, and basically saying it's super yummy). This is 3/4 very low-yielding, old vine Grenache, aged in tank and neutral oak. Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault make the rest: it's a classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend. We drank a bottle a month ago and loved it. Low acid yet not flabby. Chateauneuf spice: curry, clove, fennel, tapenade. Concentrated berry that hovers between briary and jammy. Delicious drinking anytime. I think I just convinced myself to drink another bottle! Better hurry.
March 15, 2007
LES CAILLOUX Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 ($48). Gevrey Chambertin meets Southern Rhone in this silky, deep, intense, spicy, luxurious Chateauneuf. This is my kinda wine in spades, and recommend everyone try it.
January 10, 2007
A Rhone lover's dream, the DOMAINE DE LA PERTUISANE "VIEILLES VIGNES" 2004 ($31) is from the village of Maury on the French Mediterranean near the Spanish border. As Maury wines must, by law, be fortified, this is a Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalenes. Blend is 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Should you ask us "why should I buy this thirty-something Southern French Vin de Pays wine, with all the delightful $10-$20 Rhone and Southern France wine that's out there?" Well, that would be a good question. My answers: 1) All Domaine vineyards, so these are true winegrowers, as meticulous in their farming as their winemaking. Quality starts in the vineyard and ends in your glass. 2) Powerful flavors are nicely layered and delineated. The raspberry/strawberry/plum make the base and the rose petals, licorice, cinnamon stick and black pepper weave their way through the wine. This wine combines grace and power as well as any Rhone or Southern French out there. 3) Endless food matching possibilities. Italian, BBQ, classic French, even Chinese (not too spicy though), the Pertuisane will find its niche with the dish. Be one cool cat and procure some Pertuisane.
April 19, 2007
YANN CHAVE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2005 ($27). I love the nose on this wine! Deep blue and raspberry, olive, fresh leather, tobacco, woodsmoke, meat. Makes me shiver I like it so much! This is not at prime drinking level quite yet. I'm going to open one sometime during the Holidays to check in on it. Nicely ripe, bracing acidity that will mellow for sure, seductive Northern Rhone that shows the outstanding quality of the vintage.
April 20, 2007
Not your everyday sparkler, JULIEN FOUET CRÉMANT DE LOIRE Brut ($21) is 80% Chenin Blanc & 20% Cabernet Franc from Loire Valley appelation of Saumur. Sounds high-falutin I know, but this is an ethereal sparkling wine. Really. The flavors don't grab me as much as the texture. Like the scruff of a Siamese cat, it's silky and pleasingly coarse at the same time. Red plums, wild cherries and white pepper on the nose leads to flavors of citrus and more light red fruits. Again, the texture is the thing here. I also like the versatility: apps to red meats to rich fish, this'll hold its own.
May 21, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
An additional 6 months in the bottle and the Chateau Pesquié Côtes du Ventoux "Quintessence" 2003 ($22) has really opened up. Compared with Dan's notes below, I had a much different experience with this wine when I enjoyed it with dinner the other night. I decanted the wine 20 minutes before I served the food (Gnocchi, meatballs, home made heirloom tomato sauce with lots of fresh basil) and was really pleased with it. Medium bodied and very food friendly, it had nice acidity which really complimented the tomato sauce, a definite bit of pepper, and red fruit. What I did not find was the funk I remembered from before. The fruit and spice were well integrated, and it was enjoyed by all around my dining table this evening. I think I'm going to invite "Quintessence" to dinner again soon.
November 10, 2006
I'm marginally amused when I must make a buying decision on a Parker score, and the wine is not what I expect. For example, Chateau Pesquié Côtes du Ventoux "Quintessence" 2003 ($22), a Southern Rhone blend of 80% Syrah & 20% Grenache, has more of the flavor of the French boot then what Parker let on. It's very good of course, but not for one and all. Nose of black truffle, saddle leather, ground black pepper, allspice and licorice turns to briar patch, blueberry, dried strawberries, game and a little citrus. This is medium bodied, nicely intense, quite musky Rhone that is best with a rib eye, sautéed mushrooms and/or root vegetable medley.
April 21, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
I am truly excited that my favorite house wine is back in the shop. I will be taking yet another case of the DOMAINE ANDRE BRUNEL Côtes-du-Rhône "Cuvée Sommelongue" 2005 ($15) home with me tonight, because it is just so good. What is turning out to be a spectacular vintage in that part of the world, this wine is a great example of the stellar values still out there. Picked later and very ripe, this has all the sweet core of berry jam, pepper, and rich fruit while still maintaining its dryness. Ample body and well integrated tannin round out the oh-so-lush fruit, all for a mere fifteen bucks. If you want some, order soon before Dan and I drink it all.
April 20, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
DOMAINE DE PIAUGIER SABLET Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc 2005 ($15) is made with fairly equal parts of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne, barrel fermented and aged 8 months in neutral barrels, with lees stirring once a week. The town of Sablet is located between the villages of Séguret and Gigondas in the southern Rhône Valley. The wine is really crisp and minerally, with green apple and ample citrus. A good choice for a spring picnic.
June 22, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
DOMAINE DE LA FRUITÈRE "Cuveé Petit M" Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2005 ($10) is from the Loire Valley, right near the cool Atlantic coast. This is oyster country, and this charming, crisp, mineraly white is the perfect accompaniment to all things seafood. Aged in stainless steel, the wine sits lightly on the palate, and has flavors of citrus, a little herb, and a touch of brine from the ocean.
December 28, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
Always a fan of great White Burgundy for a great value, I was really pleased to discover DOMAINE DE LA CHAPELLE MACON SOLUTRÉ-POUILLY 2005 ($17). It is small production, hand harvested Chardonnay from old vines in Macon. The wine is a mouthfull, with lemon candies, crisp acidity, ripe stonefruits, and a nice finish of oak. Make no mistake though, this is not your typical California-style oaky Chardonnay. There is purity of fruit, and a nice sense of minerality and place. I'm getting hungry for a nice rich flaky halibut and some wild mushrooms to pair this with.
November 2, 2006
Francois Cotat 2005 Sancerres are in. We've received on case of each:
Francois Cotat Sancerre "Grande Cote" 2005, SOLD OUT.
Francois Cotat Sancerre "Les Culs de Beaujeu " 2005, $45/bottle net.
Francois Cotat Sancerre "Monts Damnes " 2005, $45/bottle net.
Have not tasted any of these. A winemaker who lives up the street tried them in France recently and said what we already know: real tight, showing sulphur (Cotats always do when young) and best to cellar them for at least a year...longer for the Grande Cote.
February 24, 2007
We jumped at the chance to pick up two cases of MAS DE DAUMAS GASSAC Blanc, Vin de Pays de l'Herault 2003 ($60 net). From deep in the Languedoc comes this white wine with a cult following. (Made famous years ago by Kermit Lynch, but he no longer imports them.) The blend is 30% each Viognier, Chardonnay and Petit Manseng. The other 10% is a blend of about 15 varietals hardly ever seen outside this remote wine region. We drank a bottle two weeks' ago, and it is so delicious. The acidity is woven into the wine, so you think low acid but it's still plenty nervy. Rich fruit abounds like mango, pineapple, grapefruit and white peach. Still, it doesn't overwhelm with too much of anything. Exceptional minerality, too. This is a must for lovers of fine white wines, ESPECIALLY if you've never had it before.
June 22, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
In the mood for a lovely white Burgundy that won't break the bank? Try DOMAINE DE LA CHAPELLE Mâcon-Soultré-Pouilly 2005 ($17). It's hard not to love this wine, and thanks to a few great local customers, it's hard for us to keep it in stock. Mâcon in southern Burgundy is one of the warmest areas in this cool region, and Chardonnay reigns queen here. Creamy texture, lemon, peach, and grapefruit flavors. Minerality, and good balance, and definitely enought structure to stand up really well with roasted and grilled poultry, pork, or seafood.
January 10, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
CHATEAU DE MONTMIRAIL GIGONDAS "CUVÉE DE BEAUCHAMP" 2004 ($22) accompanied me to a dinner party last night and was a smashing success. It has everything you look for in a good classic Southern Rhone. I opened the wine about 45 minutes before we were to sit down and enjoy it, and when I poured it the wine opened up with classic blackberry, strawberry, licorice, and peppercorn. There's no barrel on this one, just a nice sweet core of fruit in the middle and a fine amount of tannin to balance it out. We drank this with a fabulous hearty winter Minestrone with lots of fresh homemade basil pesto, and the wine was a great compliment.
July 20, 2007
We love our Chateauneuf-du-Papes. Always stock more than we need. Here are some that have come & gone:
DOMAINE DU PEGAU Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 (SOLD OUT). The belle of the ball in this line-up as far as demand goes. "Perhaps the Chateauneuf of the vintage" says Robert Parker. Sappy, rich berry/cherry, wild dry herbs (garrigues), lavender, licorice, intense and surprisingly ready to enjoy right now for such a regal wine.
DOMAINE CHARVIN Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 (SOLD OUT). This "traditional" Rhone is silky, rich, and perfectly restrained. Another Burgundy-esque style (really good Burgundy, that is). Surprisingly available this vintage-I had to beg borrow and steal to get the 2003. Our gain, for it's special.
CLOS DU MONT OLIVET Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 (SOLD OUT). Fruit-forward, juicy, minerality, tapenade, spicecake and black olive sensations intertwine for a complete, classic Chateauneuf du Pape. This is the wine you need to get to know, then will enjoy like your best friend.
October 10, 2006
I can't help but choose wines such as the Montpezat "Palombieres" Coteaux du Languedoc 2003 ($15) when it's time to make a wine decision. I'm being a more than a little subjective here, but I do love the "French flavor" along with the taste of the Mediterranean sunshine in such a wine. Blend is 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. Aged in partially new oak for one year before bottling. "Palombieres" is particulary big, juicy and strong flavored for a wine of this ilk. Sweet summer berries nuzzle up to licorice, oil cured black olives and cedar to make a complete, full bodied red wine. Food matches come to mind immediately: roast leg of lamb, squab or pheasant, liver & onions!
January 17, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
For those of you who can't get enought of big, viscous, fleshy Gewürztraminer, I offer you DOMAINE
BOTT-GEYL "LES ELEMENTS" ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER 2004. This is a pure expression of this wild grape varietal. It has a big spicy and exotic nose, with a mouthfilling palate. It is oily, perfumed, spiced, and a little off-dry, with low acid. This is the perfect wine to pair with Peking Duck.
February 15, 2007
There's not that much worthy Grand Cru Red Burgundy available for under $100 any more. Sucks, but it's true. To find one with a little bottle age on it, heck…all the better!
We opened the PHILIPPE NADDEF MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 1999 ($89) last month. Excellent. Naddef makes traditional-style Burgundy, i.e. you can expect "feminine" wines from him with ample acidity and structure. In the past, I've liked but not loved his wines. This Mazis is a big step above any Naddef I've had before. Deep, brilliant crimson color, nose of griotte, truffle, pie spice, clay, tobacco. Lots of fruit in the mouth, and lots of structure. Not so much that it's begging for more cellar time, but it's politely asking. The finish is pleasing: more red fruits, juicy note, long. Once I popped a bottle, folks bought all we had. We just got more. Don't expect to have it for too terribly long.
February 12, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
DOMAINE DE REGUSSE Pinot Noir 2005 ($10) is definitely a contender for the "best cheap bottle of Pinot" anywhere. Domaine de Régusse is located in the area of Haute Provence, at the beginning of the Luberon mountain, 80 km from Marseille. The wine is very New World in style. Soft and lush, It has a sweet core of ripe approachable fruit flavors. Taste blackberries, cherries, and raspberries, with just a subtle hint of oak.
July 21, 2006
Gilles Robin Croze Hermitage "Cuvée Albéric Bouvet" 2003 ($29 net). This is one of Croze's penultimate producers, and I was tickled silly to have the opportunity to buy some. And it's the outstanding 2003 vintage no less! This is a brooder. Unapologetically rich with black currant, smokehouse, cracked black pepper, white pepper and wild blueberry. It's certainly youthful right now. Decanting is a must. This wine screams "RHONE" with all its might.
February 13, 2007
CAVE DE CHANTE PERDRIX Saint-Joseph 2004 ($22) is wonderfully authentic Northern Rhone Valley Syrah. Ripe but not jammy, good acidity but not tart, nicely balanced. Enjoy a bottle of this and imagine yourself on the banks of the Rhone in Vienne, enjoying roast fowl and haricots verts. White pepper, licorice, red currants, black olive and raspberry/strawberry flavors mold together into a wine that can seemingly come from only the Northern Rhone.
(And here's Ryan Graham's notes)
CAVE DE CHANTE-PEDRIX SAINT-JOSEPH 2004 ($22) is a Northern Rhone classic. Medium bodied yet powerful, it is very peppery, and wild. Along with the pepper, taste red berries, plums and leather. A bit gamey on the nose, with a nice long finish. Little or no oak used. This goes really well with roasted fowl.
January 10, 2007
FRANCIS BLANCHET POUILLY-FUMÉ "Cuvée Silice" 2005 ($25) hits the mark. 2005 is a rippin' good vintage in the Loire. Ripeness and mineraliness combine for a fine, very tangy, lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc "experience." No oak, bright acid, lemon/lime, chalk, lemongrass, Granny Smith apple…this is unmistakable Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The fresh, briny, just-shucked Kumamoto oysters are calling.
May 1, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
Last night I opened and thouroughly enjoyed DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES Savigny-les-Beaune "Aux Fourneaux" Premier Cru 2004 ($35) There is a nicely classic and authentic quality to the wine. It definitely has notes of spice, and pine forest in the nose. The palate is medium bodied, and has a really good core of cherry fruit. While no one would mistake this for California Pinot, the fruit is definitely a strong presence in the wine. It is nicely balanced, and has a lot going on with it. I drank it with some fairly spicy grilled turkey breast, broccolini, and wild rice pilaf, and it held up really well to the food.
July 21, 2006
Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2005 ($26). Jean Laurent Vacheron visited BRW last month, and poured us his 2005 Sancerre. Biodynamically grown grapes, 20 year old vineyard planted on limestone and silex soils. This is wonderful Sauvignon Blanc. Meyer lemons, stones, peaches, green apples, grapefruits and oranges. The citrus really comes on strong at the end. The "minerality" of the Loire Valley is unmistakeable. Pure, shimmering, and outstanding.
January 10, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
MONMOUSSEAU VOUVRAY "CLOS LE VIGNEAU" 2005 ($16) is 100% Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. Clos Le Vigneau is from an area known as “les Gués d'Amant” or “Lover’s Gap." Most of the vines were planted in 1929. The soil is a mixture of argilo-calcaire, silex and gravel. There is a slightly exotic and seductive nose of white peach, wildflowers, and fresh ginger. Nice and crisp, it is lighter in body and has a great balance of fruit and acidity.
July 21, 2006
Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2004 ($49 net) is a glorious wine that has garnered equally glorious reviews already. 50 % Grenache, 30 % Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah. Parker loved it from barrel, giving it 92-95. We'll be trying the wine on Thursday July 27 here at BRW ("Under The Radar Tasting" from 3 to 6, come join us.)
October 5, 2006
Juiciest, yummiest, tastiest French red I've had in a while: Domaine du Colette Morgon "Le Charme de Colette" 2005 ($17/btl) is da one. Nothing much to break down on this wine, it just smells like fruit, tastes like fruit, finishes like fruit. Some Beaujolais can be real tangy. This one is not. Atypical in its lushness and easy to understand yumminess (there's that "y" word again). Just buy it, pop it on a Tuesday night when you're slightly exhausted and wanting a good but not serious wine that's y... oh stop it.
October 3, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
Domaine de Pouy Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne 2005 ($9) This is 100% Ugni Blanc from Gascony in southwestern France, an area best known for Armagnac and the Three Musketeers. Although mostly used as the main grape for Armagnac and Cognac production, locals “in the know” have been consuming Ugni Blanc for decades. This is a classic, crisp white with great body and lively citrus flavors that is meant to be consumed in the current vintage, and we are doing our darndest to drink them out of it as quickly as possible.
September 17 , 2006
In my book, there's no better value than the Mas Grand Plagniol Costières de Nîmes "Tradition" 2003 for only $11 a bottle. This is Mediterranean red, almost Rhone Valley, half Grenache/half Syrah blend. For my taste, this wine has the perfect amount of rich berry/cherry fruit (which is a lot) and also the right southern France anise, peppercorn, lavender, wild thyme note too. Drinks great alone, drinks great for food. I've stocked a lot of this wine in my wine closet for Tuesday night drinking.
July 21, 2006
I can think of no wine I'd rather have, if sitting on a beach chair with my toes in the swimming hole, than Mattes-Sabran Corbières Rosé 2005 ($15). We poured this during Hot Dog Weekend and I decided that all rose wines should taste exactly like this: Brimming (not bursting) with berry and citrus flavor, bright and tangy but not tart or seemingly too dry, fresh as just fallen snow. So good. This is from Southwestern France, and is mostly Grenache. I have a couple of cases in the store right now.
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