Wines From Other Parts
August, 2008
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France
July 24, 2008
Four French wines that have really floated my boat as of late:
CELESTIN BLONDEAU Sancerre "Cuvée des Moulins Bâles" 2005, $21. 2005 was such a good year for Sancerre. The wines are ripe but not overly so, we find. Good acidity. The Blondeau hits the grapefruit, green apple and lemon thyme notes. Zingy, as we like our Sancerres to be!
MATTES-SABRAN Rosé Vin de Pays d'Oc 2007, $14. As good as it ever was, and that's pretty good. Mourvedre and Syrah in here. Moderately fruity, not exactly earthy but you do taste the south of France. Dry herbs and spice and everything nice. Drink it cold with BBQ chicken thighs.
LA SOURCE DE RUAULT Saumur Champigny 2006, $20. Cabernet Franc , Loire Valley. This dear wallflower is pretty cherries and plums with a smidge of thyme and white pepper. Have patience and give it some attention to enjoy it's silky bright fruit and layers of flavors. NOT an al fresco wine, but it just came in and we love it.
DOMAINE DES LISES Crozes-Hermitage 2006, $30. Poured last Friday night. This slightly cult-ish Crozes is the bee's knees. Great classic Syrah aromatics, dark color, bold, very well made and pure. A little young of course. Drinking in 2010 is best.
June 3, 2008
MAS AMIEL Rosé "Le Plaisir" Côtes du Roussillon 2007 ($16)
I try not to play favorites, but for the sake of the story I choose the Mas Amiel as my favorite Rosé in the store today. Look at the brillian color. How can you not be drawn? Southwestern France, blend of Grenache, Carignane and Syrah. Combination on raspberry and strawberry essence and ruby grapefruit. It's loaded with fruit and unmistakably dry.
April 25, 2008
Domaine de la Solitude Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2005 ($35). Drink this seductive, exotic, oily, luscious Southern Rhone white with grilled sardines, mackerel and pancetta-wrapped grilled shrimp. If you adore rich Chardonnay and want something a little different, treat yourself to this wine and share it at your dinner table. Three grapes of the region in here: Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Enjoy the roast nut, wildflower, waxy, tropical and citrus fruit sensations of the Solitude.
April 3, 2008
Best wine for the money in the store, hands-down, is the PRINCE PONIATOWSKI Vouvray "Clos Baudoin" 1990 ($26). This is a Moelleux, i.e. the finished wine is noticeably sweet. A nut & cheese wine to many. 17 years of maturity does wondrous things to off-dry Chenin. This wine is astoundingly fresh, still, with flamboyant honeyed pear and grapefruit flavors. Bottle age makes the wine seemingly less sweet. A touch of mushroom and honeycomb adds complexity and lusciousness. This wine is ridiculously complex, exotic and wonderful for just $26.
March 6, 2008
Château Mourgues du Gres Costières de Nîmes "Les Galets Rouges" 2006 ($15)
This Rhone wine region, near the Mediterranean is old Roman territory and the cradle of the fabric denim.
(de
Nimes/denim...truly, the Romans processed cotton into fabric and dyed it blue. DENIM! Cliff Clavin at your service.) This very big, rather new-world style red is made mostly from Syrah. Old and new world styles collide in this hearty, dark, robust, quite showy red. Smell and taste dark blueberry, black cherry and currant, cola, licorice and espresso. This chewy red could as well be from Paso Robles as from Southern France. Red meat eaters alert: this is dynamite with just about anything red-fleshed and cooked over an open flame.
March 6, 2008
Domaine Gardiès Côtes du Roussillon "Mas Las Cabes" 2006 ($15)
Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, with practically within earshot, are the Syrah, Grenache and Carignane vines that make "Mas Las Cabes." Here's yet another California-esque, sun-soaked red wine. Seekers of very black peppery wines must try this wine for it's like a peppermill gone berzerk from nose to finish. But wait, there's more! Briary, intense raspberry and blueberry flavors, anise seed, oil-cured olives and tobacco come to mind is this big, impressive wine. Game birds, lightly smoked then slow-roasted, are the first food match that comes to mind.
February 13, 2008
I'd like to tell you about two great expressions of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. FRANCOISE CHIDAINE Montlouis Sur Loire "Les Choisilles" 2005 ($27) hails from this region across the Loire River from Vouvray. Maybe it's just the ones I've had, but I find Montlouis wines consistently better than Vouvray. True, Chidaine is one of the best houses here. He makes quite a few wines, and this "Les Choisilles" is particularly good if you insist on dryness. It's a classic in all the best ways: fresh pear, peach, grapefruits and pineapple flavors mixed with ample minerality and ZING. This is totally delicious.
CHATEAU DE SURONDE Anjou 2004 ($31) is from the Loire appellation Quarts-de-Chaume. But this wine is DRY, so it must be called the more encompassing Anjou region. Nose is sweet pear skins and honeycomb. The flavor is rich and powerful like a strong Pinot Gris (sorta) with white chocolate and candied grapefruit flavors. It's dry (oh yeah, I wrote that already), a textural playground and really fun to drink.
February 5, 2008 (By Ryan Graham)
LEON BEYER Gewurztraminer Alsace 2005 ($20) is an excellent choice for a bone dry and highly aromatic dinner wine this evening. This historic winery in the town of Eguisheim has been family owned and operated since 1580. They are known for producing delicious, varietally pure dry wines, such as this one. On the nose, it is white flowers and white chocolate. On the palate, classic Gewurz flavors of lychee, and Mandarin orange. Tangy and dry in the long finish. Pair this with all of the usual spicy suspects....Chinese, Thai, Indian, or sushi with geneous amounts of wasabi.
January 11, 2008
DOMAINE FONTAINE-GAGNARD Chassagne-Montrachet "La Grande Montagne" 1er Cru 2005 ($63). Very very good Premier Cru White Burgundy! This vineyard is very steep and looks over the great Montrachet vineyard, which is relatively flat and just outside the villages. Plumpness and tension intertwine here. I get preserved lemon, apricots, quince, white chocolate and a sweet herbal thing that makes it so classic and so tasty. You'd expect this wine, considering the vineyard and vintage, to be on the closed side, but it ain't. Showing great and highly recommended to drink with the classic matches like crustaceans and creamy white meat dishes.
December 19, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
CHATEAU D'ORSCHWIHR Pinot Blanc "Bollenberg" Alsace 2005 ($15) is one of our current BRW favorites. Fresh, lush, lively and creamy, with a honeyed essence. Ever so slightly off-dry, and nicely rich and viscous on the palate. The nose is floral, with apples and peaches. This wine is too easy to like, and so delicious, especially with spicy foods (think Thai or Indian), or sushi. It certainly is one that is truly enjoyable all on its own.
December 15, 2007
It's Chateauneuf-du-Pape season! The following 2005s just came in:
DOMAINE CHARVIN Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($65 net).
“May indeed produce the Richebourg of Chateauneuf du Pape." Robert Parker
Gerard Charvin and his son, Laurent, represent the quintessence of the small domaine/father and son team. They have only 8 ha. of Chateauneuf du Pape, and half of that they sell off to negociants, keeping only the best lots for the Chateauneuf of Domaine Charvin. What goes into their Chateauneuf is about 82% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre, Syrah, and Vaccarese from their vines averaging about 50 years of age (the oldest being 70 years). Together they combine the experience and patience of Gerard with the wine making brilliance of Laurent, now regarded as one of the top wine-makers in the appellation by Guy Julien, famous owner of the restaurant Beaugraviere in Mondragon and assembler of its unequalled Rhone list.
Words that come to mind in describing the style of Charvin’s wine would include at the top, silky, velvety, and smooth. There are no harsh or dry tannins and they are always impeccably balanced. Descriptors that Robert Parker uses also include seductive, sexy, smoky, blackberry, cherry, hedonistic, flamboyant and blockbuster. These are indeed some of the best examples of the appellation and represent a very unique and extraordinary style that is immediately recognizable, and thus literally an artistic expression.
Robert Parker: "The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape offers pure raspberry fruit with superb intensity, a deep, full-bodied style, with deeper bluer and blacker fruits but of course the telltale kirsch is present. Interesting notes of licorice, pepper, and incense are also present in this wine. It has fabulous intensity, but wonderful elegance, perfume, and overall equilibrium. This wine should drink beautifully for 15 or more years. As I have said so many times, young Laurent Charvin, working from this vineyard in the very northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, produces one of the most elegant and sublime Chateauneuf du Papes of the area . In short, the wines most closely resemble the finesse of Chateau Rayas when it was made by the late Jacques Reynaud."
December 7, 2007
DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE. We have three stellar wines from this Chateauneuf-du-Pape house.
First, their simply delicious DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE Côtes du Rhône 2005 ($13) is full of sappy strawberry, and white pepper. Medium bodied, persistent and bright, this is a real Côtes du Rhône lover's sure thing, and priced very reasonably for such quality.
DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($35) shows the power this region can have with the right materials (40+ year old vines growing through the galets). A shy nose quickly opens to black cherry jam, allspice, tobacco, soy sauce, black olive and game. Loads of deep, dark berry flavors and some firm tannins make for a very robust, age-worthy wine.
I have not had the DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Réserve Secrète" 2001 ($150 net) so I will quote Robert Parker: "Absolutely prodigious, and unquestionably one of the vintage’s most illustrious wines, is the modern-styled 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve Secrete. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, aged 75% in small oak casks and 25% in tank, an awesome nose of creme de cassis, graphite, kirsch, licorice, and vanilla soars from the glass of this saturated ruby/purple-colored wine. With extravagant richness, a sumptuous texture, and tremendous opulence as well as purity, this stunning, modern-styled Chateauneuf du Pape retains the soul and typicity of Provence as well as Chateauneuf du Pape. One of the vintage’s greatest wines, it is a brilliant achievement. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020."
CHAMPAGNES IN STOCK AT BACK ROOM WINES
Most recently updated May 13, 2008
Goutorbe "Cuvée Prestige" Brut, Premier Cru M.V. $55.00
70% Pinot Noir, 5% Meunier, 25% Chardonnay. Vallée de la Marne.
Classic saffron and brioche style. Charming. Definitely Pinot Noir dominated style.
Pascal Doquet, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger M.V. $55
1996, 98 and 99 vintages. Côtes des Blancs. Extended time en terrage. Lemon/orange, dry sherry, creamy feel, still have a nice fresh center.
also,
Pascal Doquet, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger 1996 $110
Pascal Doquet, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger 1998 $80
DUVAL LEROY Brut "Millesime" 1996 $58
Guy Larmandier Brut Rosé, Premier Cru M.V. $62.00 Côte des Blancs Chardonnay with 12% Pinot Noir from Vertus. Particularly crisp pink with "laser-like" precision. 
Egly-Ouriet Brut "Tradition" Grand Cru M.V. $75.00
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from 35- to 40-year-old vines; 100% grand cru.
Montagne de Reims. Vines in Bouzy, Verzenay and in the heart of Ambonnay,
An incredibly supple, vinous Champagne.
Chartogne-Taillet "Cuvée Fiacre" Brut 2000 $75.00
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Montagne de Reims.
Rich, brioche, jasmine, quince, powerful, complex, dynamite.
Pierre Gimonnet "Paradoxe" Brut, Premier Cru 2002 $59.00
Côte des Blancs, 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir (thus the paradox)
Pinot Noir comes from Vallee de la Marne, in fact.
Strong Pinot Noir fruit on nose. More delicious than profound.
Jean Milan "Spécial" Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru M.V. $53.00
2004 and 2005 vintage Chardonnay. Côte des Blancs
Crisp, high minerality, crisp lovely fruit. Definite jasmine flower aromas.
Bit richer and more tropical in the mid palate than you may expect.
October 28, 2007
For the classic Red Burgundy lover in you, we present the
DOMAINE DE SUREMAIN Mercurey "Les Crets" 1er Cru 2005 ($30). This "lesser" Burgundy town in the Côte Chalonnaise (about 12 miles south of Chassagne Montrachet) usually makes nice at best Pinot Noir...solid would be generous. Presented with a vintage like 2005, however, and Mercurey can have the fruit and body to make a complete, lovely wine. HERE YOU GO! Nose is classic, with sweet earth and wild herbs coming to the fore. Solid, ripe, wild cherry and plum hit the palate with healthy acidity...but not tart nor tangy. Long finish in a most pleasing and yes Burgundian way. Drink this wine will roast bird (choose any) and you'll think of the lovely French country bistro you love so much.
October 18, 2007
Return engagement, new vintage that's even better than the last:
MAS LAS CABES Muscat Sec, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2006 ($14). Damn I like this wine a lot. Dry Muscat, I declare, is one of the vastly underrated wines of the world. Keeps the prices down, which is nice. You get orange blossom, clove, chrysanthemum, lemon zest, Kaffir lime and pink grapefruit. It sits brightly yet very intensely in the mouth. Lovely oily texture makes for a substantial wine that belies its price big-time. Damn I like this wine. Oh, sorry, I already wrote that.
September 23, 2007
Really good White Burgundy, CHANDON DE BRIAILLES Pernand-Vergelesses "Île des Vergelesses" 1er Cru 2004 ($46) hails from a most established, excellent Burgundy house. "Île des Vergelesses" is just a stone's throw from Corton-Charlemagne, and boasts many of the same nervy, mineral, soulful qualities. This is undoubtedly of the earth with its stone fruits, pear-apple, wet stone, sweet earth intensity. If you want a great example of White Burgundy, with all its sinewy-strength and complexity, this is the current #1 Back Room recommendation. And the 2004 vintage for White Burgundy, by the way, is vastly underrated, especially now that some of them, like this wine, are beginning to blossom.
September 7, 2007
The latest Andre Brunel wine to hit the BRW racks is ANDRÉ BRUNEL Côtes du Rhône 2005 ($14). Brunel is now maybe 92 for 92 on wines I've tried and liked a lot. Sold most of them (and yet not even a T-shirt from the guy). The blend, according to the back label is 75% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. This "everyday" Rhone red smells of raspberry liqueur, wild strawberries, violets, potpourri, allspice, olive, black pepper and leather. Flavor's more of the same with good structure and exceptional length for a wine of this price. Seekers of fine value Rhone red (like me) will lap this up like a thirsty puppy dog.
August 15, 2007
DOMAINE DE NOIRE Chinon "Élégance" 2005 ($14/Half Bottle, Full bottles are sold out) is Loire Cabernet Franc on steroids. Really. I love the 2005 vintage in the Loire for the exceptional ripeness and still the character of the place and its respective grape. Normally a light ruby-hued wine, the Noire Chinon pours from the bottle deep purple and opaque. Traditionalists I think will be happy as the plum, pomegranate, thyme, tobacco and dried peppercorn flavors sing in Loire Valley harmony (performed by Simon and Garfunkel of course). It's very rich, chock-full of fruit and is a good Cab Franc to pour folks who don't usually drink Cab Franc. Not that it will help much when a "typical" Loire Cab Franc is poured for them next, but what the heck. This 
is GOOD!
April 21, 2007 (By Ryan Graham)
DAMIEN LAUREAU SAVENNIERES "Les Genets" 2002 ($25) is mostly tank aged 20-40 year old 100% Chenin Blanc from Savennieres in the Loire Valley. The wine is rich and viscous, with lots of texture and flavor. It is golden in color, and tastes of dried citrus peel, sherry, and cocoa powder. Nicely concentrated, with a nice bit of barrel aged, the wine really conveys the sense of place that it comes from.
January 15, 2007
I swear, André Brunel owes me a T-Shirt. Just brought in five Brunel wines, my favorite winemaker in the Rhone Valley if not France if not the world. LES CAILLOUX CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2004 ($48) is full of potpourri, Provencal herbs, wild berries, pie spice. Typical for this wine, it has the texture of a silky, full-bodied Pinot Noir.
December 18, 2006 (By Ryan Graham)
DOMAINE LA MILLIÈRE CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE "CUVÉE UNIQUE" 2004 ($25) was a favorite around here long before North Berkley Imports went and reduced the price. Now it went from being a store favorite to an incredible value. Believed by many to be the finest terroir for Grenache is Mont Redon-Cabrières, the home of la Millière. This region is blessed with Châteauneuf's best soils—round galet stones the size of fists, well-draining sand, and mineral-rich limestone. The blend is 80% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah, which is aged in older Burgundian barrels. Big bouquet of raspberry liquer, lavender, stawberry, olive and licorice. Only 650 cases were made.
Special 10% off six bottle purchase of Milliere.
20% off full case purchase. Only $240/case!
November 16, 2006
Holiday shoppers, in the sweet section is Chateau Raymond Lafon Sauternes Half Bottles 2002 ($36). Lafon's vineyard abuts Yquem, and challenges Yquem in quality, and sells for a whole lot less. 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc. This 2002 is dreamy. Its fruit spectrum runs from tropical to citrus grove and boasts lite caramel, brown butter and vanilla extract. It lets you go at the end with a little zip of acidity to keep the wine and your mouth awake. This wine is sure to find a Christmas stocking or two, then be served with the Christmas pudding that night. Or better yet, the Christmas Roquefort.
October 1, 2006
First 2004 Cote d'Or Red Burgundy in the store: Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" 2004 ($52). It's a little scary to recommend such a wine for drinking tonight 'cuz you never know when a young, exceptional Burg will go dumb, but it did show well when drunk in early September. This wine boasts all the expected wild cherry, plum, citrus, spicebox, sandalwood and such. The mid palate has lots of sweet fruit, making it quite approachable in its youth. (Again, I hope the experience is the same on my next drink.) I taste almost all red Burgundies before bringing them into the store, because you never know what you'll gonna get, I find. I tried it, liked it a lot, and now it's here.
September 22 , 2006
One of the great wines of the world is here: Les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvée Centenaire" 2003 ($190/bottle net). This vineyard was planted in 1889...and since 1989, "Centenaire" is made in only the best vintages (this is the fifth Centenaire since its inaugural vintage). Blend is 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Syrah. This wine is a vinous wonderland, full of kirsch, mocha, sweet cigar, clove, anise, coal. Texturally, this wine is a marvel. This is my Desert Island wine, and since we're talking fantasy, I want my Desert Island to be about 60-65 degrees so my leg of lamb or cassoulet will be appetizing. Treat yourself to this special wine, I'm going to!