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Featured Winery Summer 2006
Syrah "Bien Nacido Vineyard" Santa Maria Valley 2002, $39 Order Today!
Syrah "Melville Vineyards" Santa Rita Hills 2002, $65 Order Today!
Syrah "Roll Ranch Vineyard" California 2002, $58 Order Today!
Late Harvest Viognier California 2005, $31/half bottle Order Today!
THE OJAI MIXED CASE
3 bottles of each
$520
That's 10% off all the wines.
My “coming of age” in the wine biz partly explains, but I consider Ojai as one of California's original cult wine producers. In the mid 1990’s, the world just couldn’t get enough of the Santa Barbara County wines of The Ojai Vineyard, and I formed a (slight) bond with owner/winemaker Adam Tolmach by calling him from NorCal and proactively acquiring his wines.
The wines are as amazing as ever, and critics such as Robert Parker agree with consistent 90+ point ratings. However, the job is not quite so easy, for a few (hundred) new wineries have arrived since those mid 90’s days and are taking a bite out of the same steak. To my delight, Adam paid BRW a visit two weeks’ back to pour a few of his newest wines. It’s rare to see him on the sales route, and he doesn’t need to…his Ojai wines are doing very well. Still, he feels a need to remind us all that he’s here, making amazing wine, and the consistency shows in every single bottle. No dogs here, wine lovers.
Adam Tolmach of Ojai reminded me of this, but it’s possible you haven’t even had an Ojai wine before. There’s not that much of it around. If you have not enjoyed Ojai, then this wine pitch is speaking to you.
Ojai produces big flavored wines that balance great concentration with balance and complexity. They are just about as perfect as California wines get. They taste of the California sunshine and are made to develop and improve for 10+ years after vintage. If you like to buy the best California wines and Ojai is not in your collection, try them now.
I concentrate today on the Ojai Syrahs and finish with his “sticky,” a late harvest, frozen grape Viognier. It’s particularly neat to offer three 2002 Syrahs as they have all had time now to settle and develop just a little bit. It’s Adam Tolmach’s opinion that they will develop even more…1997 is his preferred Ojai vintage to drink right now.
I describe the three Syrahs in order from the coolest vineyard to warmest. If you’re into learning through taste the difference a little temperature difference can make in wine, then I strongly suggest you buy all three and try to them in rather quick succession.
Ojai Vineyard Syrah "Bien Nacido Vineyard"
Santa Maria Valley 2002 $39/Bottle
The impressive “Bien Nacido Vineyard” makes Ojai’s most easily enjoyable Syrah. If you’re only wish for a wine is to uncork, pour and enjoy, then “Bien Nacido” is my suggestion for you. I’m not sure Adam would agree, and I do write relative to the other Syrahs. But, my experience with this 2002 “B.N.” is that it’s rich, giving, luscious, and delish. Blueberries, mulberries, cracked black pepper, espresso, vanilla bean and melted bakers’ chocolate aromas move to more of the same in the mouth (should note that the baker’s chocolate isn’t bitter.) It’s low acid, smooth and strong.
It’s really good.
Ojai Vineyard Syrah "Melville Vineyards"
Santa Rita Hills 2002 $65/Bottle
“Melville, ” in the Santa Rita Hills A.V.A., only 20 miles from The Pacific, lives in very cool weather for grapes. Tiny berries and a dinky crop is the norm out here (should you visit, you’d agree that “Melville” is out here). The result is classic Ojai style, which is big and black, heavy wine with awesome concentration and varietal character. Chocolate, blueberry, black currant and boysenberry are the most typical Cal Syrah flavors. In the French corner come tobacco, kalamata olive, dried wild thyme and smoldering hickory embers. This is the most distinctive and exotic of the three Syrahs I feature. It’s the one you may call a little wild, if you wish.
Ojai Vineyard Syrah "Roll Ranch Vineyard"
California 2002 $58/Bottle
In the spirit of “mosting” these Syrahs, the 2002 “Roll Ranch” is the most in need of more cellar time. A Ventura County vineyard, very close to the winery, these grapes grow on a rocky hillside. This vineyard loves the heat...it's the hottest vineyard from which Ojai makes wine. This Syrah is very very big but not precocious. To this day it dons a cloak of tannins. Someday soon they will integrate and the wine will glow. If you play the Ojai Syrah game I suggest above (try them all together), then most definitely decant this wine three hours before drinking. When you do, chocolate covered black cherries, tar, black olive, smoky bacon, lavender, clove and mulberry are some of the myriad flavors that you’ll enjoy.
Ojai Vineyard Late Harvest Viognier
California 2005 $31/Half Bottle
This is very late harvest Viognier from “Roll Ranch” that is frozen right after picking. I do declare, this is as delicious as any California dessert wine, regardless of price. It is low-alcohol, very sweet, and bursting with all its exotic Viognier pleasure. Of course it shall pair nicely with strong blue cheese, but I find it best drinking with nothing more than a few friends. It’s the type of “experience” that I find makes the room fall quiet for a minute as all savor, mellow out, and enjoy the experience.