Back Room's Wine Diary
California Cabernet Sauvignon & Cab Based Blends
August, 2008
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August 8, 2008
Three vintages under her belt yet still flying a bit below the radar, Amy Aiken's MEANDER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 ($65) is very good. It's about half "Morisoli Vineyard" Rutherford and "Lewelling" St. Helena (these two vineyards are a stone's throw from each on the Valley floor, just west of Highway 29.) 75% new French oak gives structure, smoke and more sweetness. It is in balance with the fruit.
Black currants, chocolate, mulberry, minerality, lush, bold...just solid. "Iron fist in a velvet glove" some smart person said about something. Pertains to Cab, pertains to Meander me thinks. Take this to dinner tonight and impress your friends and loved ones. 500 cases made.
August 7, 2008
Recently tasted through the Hendry Vineyard wines and was very impressed with HENDRY VINEYARD Red Wine Napa Valley 2005 ($36). It's a Bordeaux-style blend turned updside down: 30% Malbec, 26% Petit Verdot, 16% Cab Sauv, 14% Cab Franc, 14% Merlot. I really like the brooding, black fruits, strong notes of espresso, woodsmoke (not too much) and sexy oak (also in control). The Petit Verdot and Malbec give the wine its big exotic nose and hefty structure. Cab Sauv, Franc and Merlot give complexity. Heck of a lot of wine in this bottle for just $36. Hendry Vineyard is best known for their Zinfandels ("Block 28" Zin, now in stock, is delish). They grow seemingly 100 other grapes as well.
July 31, 2008
Just tasted: MAD HATTER Red Wine, Napa Valley 2005 ($58). This is the second label for newcoming Dancing Hares Winery. (Haven't had the Dancing Hares yet...next vintage). Line up the stars for this one: Dave Abreu in the vineyard, Andy Erickson making the wine, Michel Rolland consulting. Retired software executives moved to Napa, started the winery and are living their dream. Good for them! The vineyard, at the foot of Howell Mountain, is planted to the five Bordeaux grapes.
Mad Hatter is a blend of 55% Cab Sauv, 35% Merlot, 5% each Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Sweet berries, definite liqueur edge, generous in its fruit and very ripe and lush. It's a tres modern style I hear contrarians poo-poo but most wine-loving folk love. I like the positivity. 485 cases made.
July 22, 2008
RAMIAN "Chapter 5" Napa Valley 2005 ($56) I've been a Ramian fan for a couple years, and the "Chapter 5" is my favorite wine yet from Owner/Winemaker Brian Graham. He never ceases to impress me with his powerful yet controlled style of winemaking. I've tried this wine two times, once just-opened and once opened-the-day-before, and digged it both times. Black currant, black cherry, dark tobacco, bittersweet chocolate, black olive, malt...it's another exemplary a Cab-based blend (91% Cab Sauv to be exact, with a dash of the other four Bordeaux grapes) that marries big Napa fruit with vinous complexity. 257 cases made.
July 22, 2008
DETERT FAMILY Cabernet Franc Oakville, Napa Valley 2005 ($60 net). Notes and descriptions didn't pop into my head as I drank this the other day. What came to mind is "boy this is delicious!" Less in a Cab Franc way than a big, lusty Napa red way. This is the fifth or so straight vintage (I forget exactly) of Detert that we've carried. We're happy to be getting more than just a couple of cases, so it should be around for a couple of months at least. Good fall wine, so this is good news. Tom Garrett (Assistant at Revana Family) is of the Detert Family, and the vineyard is tucked under the Mayacamas just north of Oakville Grade. 5-10% Cab Sauv adds girth and structure. This dark, lush, well-endowed is of the prime-time Bordeaux style. 296 cases made.
July 21, 2008
SEQUUM Cabernet Sauvignon "Four Soil Melange" Napa Valley 2005 ($60). Fourth consecutive vintage we've carried. Almost as good as the 2003. Much better than the 2004 in my opinion. The quick skinny: geologist and vineyard consultant Paul Skinner makes a figurative drop-in-the-bucket of Cab (and a couple of Zins, too). The Cab comes from four vineyards, thus the melange of soils (of course, Paul's work gives creedence to the angle). He makes it at Pride Mountain Winery, and it does have the Pride richness and texture. My notes:
Briar patch, blueberry, pituli and freshly turned dark earth on the nose. The generous amount of smoky oak plays nicely with the aromas of-the-earth. Flavor is red and black fruits both, dried thyme and marjoram, vanilla cream soda. Expands on the finish...taste more of the same as in the mouth, amplified. 390 cases made.
July 12, 2008
SENSORIUM Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($37) Tiny production, fine-value Napa Cab. Grapes are from Chiles Valley, just east of the Valley floor. Chiles Valley is slightly cooler than the Valley floor, and the wines (be they Cabs or Zins) are a little brighter and more nuanced I think. Nose is smoke, berry jam, dark earth. Lots of forward fruit with a complex finish...tobacco, truffle, cocoa. It's velvety and a joy to drink. A scant 200 cases made.
July 9, 2008
T-VINE "T Red" Napa Valley 2005 ($45) is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Petite Sirah (the blend can change significantly vintage to vintage). Consistency is the name of the game at T-Vine. Always so good, juicy, strong and silky. "The most important quality factor on T-Vine wines to me is the texture. They are always hearty and still with a very silky mouthfeel" says Owner/Winemaker Greg Brown. (I paraphrase...I don't think Greg would ever use the phrase "quality factor." Hope he's cool with it.)
Burst of bing cherry and dark plum meat. Five spice and vannila bean frame the dense fruit. Robust and juicy with a satin mid palate and a long, luscious ending. It's just how Greg wants it, and how you like it. 545 cases.
June 20, 2008 
Orin Swift Cabernet Sauvignon "Mercury Head" Napa Valley 2005 ($75 net). We tasted this 2005 last week and, without question, is our favorite Mercury Head Cab since the 2002. It's powerful, beautiful and has more definition than the past two vintages. Think Linda Hamilton in Terminator 2. Beyond fruit and oak, you can taste Napa Valley earth in here! A mineral note with bittersweet chocolate and grilled red meat linger through this wine. I think this will age very nicely, and accolades will follow after it's sold out. The picture here is the real mercury head dime that owner Dave Phinney sources each vintage and affixed to every bottle.
June 20, 2008
WHITE ROCK Cabernet Sauvignon "Laureate" Napa Valley 2004 ($50). You may be familiar with the White Rock Claret, a Cab Sauv-based "Estate" Bordeaux blend made grown and made in the foothills of southeast Napa Valley (at the base of Atlas Peak). While the Claret typically cradles Napa and Bordeaux style-wise fairly evenly, their inaugural Cabernet "Laureate" leans heavily on Napa...with props given to old world still. With 20% Merlot and 5% Cab Franc and Petite Verdot, "Laureate" has fine dimension and complexity. The fruit comes from the higher, warmer, more exposed part of the White Rock amphitheatre-like vineyard, so the richness, darkness and power are more than their Claret. Dark fruits, dark curry, bittersweet chocolate, malt balls, dark tobacco, fine silky texture, full body...very very good. Just coming onto the market, you're most likely hearing about it here first.
June 20, 2008
Ramey "Larkmead Vineyard" 2005 MAGNUMS ($175). I was tasted "blind" on this wine last week and stopped in my tracks. It's so good! Black fruits (including good ol' black cherry), bittersweet chocolate, malt, black truffle, anise, tobacco, a velvet-smoothness. It's dynamite, and very ready to enjoy now.
May 24, 2008
Seavey Vineyard recently released, and we just brought in, their CARAVINA Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 
Valley 2005 ($45). This is Seavey Vineyard's second label. Seavey is in Conn Valley, a small slice of Napa Valley that shoots off to the east like the Valley's left arm. It is just below Howell Mountain. Seavey's longtime winemaker had been Philippe Melka, a superstar winemaker if you believe in such a thing. He's now officially their consultant.
Second lable, schmecond label I say. Nothing second class about this wine, really. 100% Cab Sauv, tastes of dark and burly fruits, black licorice, smack of tobacco, smoke and dark chocolate. The Caravina '05 Cab has structure that demands two hours of air and/or five years in the cellar. In fact, I had a smidge left in the bottle the day after it had been opened. It's was more showy, complete and just plain better on day two.
May 13, 2008
GRASSO Cabernet Sauvignon "Olive Ridge Vineyard" Napa Valley 2005 ($45). From a 3.5 acre parcel 
on the outskirts of Napa-town comes this first release Cabernet. If you cringe when you hear "olive" and Cab in the same breath, please refrain. Black, spicy olive is in my tasting notes (tasting it as I write, in fact, now that it's been in the glass for an hour...needs air). Nose is black cherry, French roast coffee, forest floor, black currant and Indian spices. The flavor is rich blueberry, currant, dark earth, bittersweet chocolate, more coffee (Turkish, perhaps) and tobacco. This is well balanced and plenty structured. I estimate 2011 to be optimal drinking time. The wine is made my Jay Buoncristiani, who leaves fruit to hang before harvest as long as anybody I know. Was a late October harvest in 2005, Mr. Grasso reports. I like this Napa Cab a lot for finding the sweet spot between flashy and classic. 545 cases made.
May 9, 2008 
JERICHO CANYON Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005 ($80) rocks. This steep, stony, hillside vineyard outside of Calistoga got "on the map" from David Ramey's Jericho Canyon red wine. David has made the Jericho Canyon red for a few vintages (Robby Meyer recently took over). This wine has big-time pedigree. It's fantastic. 16% Cab Franc and 3% Merlot smooth the youthful edges. This wine is black fruit-driven with anise, dark chocolate, espresso, dried Provence herbs, vanilla and licorice. It broadens and rumbles in the mouth, then sticks around with a 30 second finish. 405 cases made.
April 28, 2008
Was almost two years ago when we first tasted this Cab. Dark, chewy and powerful, the 2003 CrauforD Cabernet Sauvignon "Tattoo-Maroon Vineyard" Napa Valley ($32) instantly found a spot on our racks and we pleased many of you with it. We sold it at the time with much enthusiasm and enjoyed many a great review from you, our customer. Imagine, then, our surprise and pleasure that we can offer it to you for as much as ten bucks less (with case discount). A fan of this wine upon release, we retasted it last week and pronounce it drinking better than ever. Dark and classic Cabernet berry, smoked chocolate, a whisp of vanilla bean, black truffle shavings, robust yet with silky, softening tannins. Uncork the bottle and enjoy immediately. We did! The "Maroon Vineyard" is in Pope Valley, a part of Napa Valley less-visited, beyond Howell Mountain, east and above Napa Valley proper. The best values in Napa Cabernets, we find, come from this area. If you know of a better Cabernet for under $40, even, we'd sure like to know about it. Case price, with 10% discount, is $345. Half case price, with 5% discount, is $183.
April 16, 2008 
I was pleased as can be to see co-owner Sam Sharp bringing in the just-released FOUNTAINHEAD Cabernet Sauvignon "Morisoli Borges Vineyard" Rutherford, Napa Valley 2005 ($45 net). Then I tasted it, and I was ECSTATIC. What a rich, juicy, layered Napa Cabernet. This ripe, low acid, supple Cabernet opens up quickly and drinks very well tonight. When Sam told me the price did not go up from the 2004 vintage, so it's an even BETTER value than last vintage, I turned ELATED. Finally, when he said I could offer our customers as much as I wanted (for the time being) I turned EXULTED.
This Rutherford Cabernet named after the Ayn Rand book is the real deal. The winemaker, and co-owner is Jason Fisher, whose day job is making very good wine for Cosentino. As you enjoy the '05 Fountainhead Cabernet you will smell/taste, in descending order of concentration, black cherry preserves, vanilla bean, mocha chips, dried thyme and the outside of a really nice cigar. A scant 500 cases made, so it's a real treat to offer you up to a case if you'd like.
April 7, 2008 
PARAS VINEYARD Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2005 ($67). I'm really pleased to have tasted, loved, and now offer this wine. The last vintage we sold, the 2002, was also stellar, loved for a short while, then destroyed in the warehouse fire of fall 2005 (along with the following two vintages). A dang shame. Good news, big & spicy Cab fans, the Paras is back and better than ever.
I compare this Paras Cab with the Mark Herold made/inspired wines Buccella and Kobalt. A wave of anise, cinnamon, mexican chocolate and vanilla bean hits the nose. Bold, sweet mulberry, black & blueberry, black cherry...all the usual, delicious suspects here. Robust and chewy, yet not drying, and packed full of flavor, this is a slam-dunk Cab recommendation.
April 6, 2008
CULLER "La Palette" Napa Valley 2005 ($50 net) comes entirely from "Alexander Ranch" near the northeast corner of Napa (Stags Leap, Atlas Peak and Oak Knoll Districts are neighbors). It's 91% Cab Sauv and 9% Petite Verdot. Karen Culler, one of our favorite winemakers both personally and professionally, can seemingly do no wrong. Really, I can't remember even a "just OK" wine from her. And indeed, this Cabernet is dynamite. I get fire-roasted black cherries, cassis, pomegranate, allspice, anise, thyme and vanilla. A lovely, lush texture and a long finish make this a prime-time Cab for a very reasonable price. We're pleased to be one of Karen Culler's most-preferred merchants and get enough of this 330 case production "La Palette" to tell the world.
March 27, 2008 
I first tasted the GRASSI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 ($60) last year from a barrel sample with owner Mark Grassi, a local contractor (and a very good one at that). I was impressed. It just came out, I had it from bottle last week, and again I was impressed. Mark Grassi's vineyard is a little ways up Soda Canyon Road, so we're at the base of Atlas Peak. It's hillside Cab-full of character and power. Peter Franus makes it. The Grassi Cab isn't sappy but it's definitely on the riper side. Black currants, mulberries and blackberries show through with, of course, black cherry liqueur. The classic hillside tobacco/minty spice flavor comes out if you open your mind to it, but it's not obvious. Excellent structure and a nice stroke of oak, but neither are overdone. This is an excellent, new, artisan Napa Cab. About 500 cases made.
March 17, 2008
Behrens & Hitchcock is now named Erna Schein. Erna was Les Behrens Mom. Les and wife Lisa own the winery. On the front label of most Erna Schein wines is a drawing of Erna's Kitchen Aid mixer in which, Les reports, she made amazing cake batter. Mom making cake-it's this image of hospitality that fuels the winery's spirit. There's no change in style nor quality from Behrens & Hitchcock. The same vineyards are sourced, Les still makes the wines.
ERNA SCHEIN Cabernet Sauvignon "Herrick Moulds" Napa Valley 2005 ($65)
This is good Cabernet. Really good! Lots of dark, juicy plums and red cherries, allspice, star anise, cardamon, tobacco, roast chestnuts, mint. Pretty special wine we think. Sappy, big fruits and surprisingly, pleasingly smooth ending. This comes from "Herrick Vineyard" on Howell Mountain and "Moulds Vineyard" in Napa's Oak Knoll District.
ERNA SCHEIN "Behrens Family Reserve" Napa Valley 2005 ($75)
This 31% Cab Sauv, 25% Merlot, 25% Franc and 19% Petite Verdot. It's mostly David Abreu-owned and farmed vineyards in St. Helena and on Howell Mountain (some Calistoga and Oak Knoll fruit as well). This seamless, opulent, chewy, harmonious red will impress you with its largess and seduce you with its subtlety (like that?). Get cassis, dark fig, cassis, root beer, vanilla, violets and of course deep rich berry/cherry.
February 27, 2008
HIDDEN RIDGE Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2004 ($75) The WILDLY successful 2003 vintage is followed by an even BETTER 2004. Honest. Rich, VERY ripe and dark fruits (berries, cherries, currants oh my) boasts a couple more layers than its predecessor. Finish gets a touch tobacco-y and earthy. Not a lot though-the richness and ripeness of fruit definitely takes the lead in this very hedonistic Cabernet. The vineyard is "beyond Spring Mountain," over the county line in Sonoma. Made by Marco DiGuilio (two in a row by Marco!). This full-throttle Cabernet is, once again, not to be missed by big Cab lovers.
February 20, 2008
Brand new label: SPENCE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2004 ($69). Spence is the vineyard and wine owner's last name, and Marco DiGuilio makes the wine. Only 192 cases made. I dig the quintessential "Mountain Cab." Nose is anise, black pepper, semi-dried raspberries, currant and earth. Flavors hit with fruit like mulberry and blueberry. Tannins are ample yet fine. Expensive oak flavors emerge on the finish (sweet toasty oak, malt, vanilla bean...) Drinks quite nicely now with a half hour of deep breathing. Definitley better to cellar.
February 14, 2008
SEDNA Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($40). New, just-released Cab from one of our favorite Mom & Pop Estate wineries in Napa. Bill & Sally Bryant live and work at the end of Big Ranch Road, somewhere in between Napa & Yountville in the Oak Knoll District. We like, recommend, and sometimes sell their Chardonnay and Syrah as well. Today, we're excited to feature their 2004 Cab Sauv. Dark and juicy, full of blackberry, mocha, tobacco and vanilla, very nicely balanced, and satisfying for lovers of Big Cabs, the 375 cases made of this wine won't be around long I suspect. Bill Bryant seems especially proud of this wine. "It's our best yet," he says. "It's kinda grown up with this vintage." It's certainly a little riper than past vintages as it just breaks the 15% alcohol level. It holds the booze well.
February 7, 2008
I'm totally taken with YORK CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon "Horseshoe" Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 2004 ($61). On the top of Spring Mountain lies York Creek vineyard, one of Napa's oldest vineyard plots. It actually cradles the Napa/Sonoma border, a la Pride. The "Horshoe" Cab, however is Napa Valley. The Horseshoe simply refers to the shape of the vineyard block.
My favorite red wines combine very ripe fruit (but not TOO ripe) with obvious, and pleasant, other-than-fruit aromas and flavors. That's why I really like the York Creek. Nose of sweet smoke, soy sauce, black olive and allspice. Flavor has lots of rich blackberry, espresso, maple syrup, black pepper and first-rate aged beef. Not tannic, but is very substanial. No benefit to cellar it in my opinion. Not going to get any better than it is right now. Only 190 cases made.
January 4, 2008
ALTAMURA Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($75). The '04 Altamura has the "universal appeal" going on. It transcends varietal preference. If you like big red wines (and if you're reading this I'm betting you do) you'll probably love and go crazy for this wine. All Cabernet from the Napa sub-AVA of Wooden Valley (lesser known part of The Valley, a tad east of Napa town). 70% new French oak is a lot, but the fruit holds up to it no problem. Sweet jammy fruit (not too jammy I don't think), mocha, a little tobacco in there and big tannins that are balanced by the richness. Very impressive. Big red drinkers, buy and drink this for a no brainer treat!
November 3, 2007 
EMILIO'S TERRACE Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley 2004 ($50). This is the first vintage in my recollection that descriptors like "lush, opulent, approachable, cushy, rich and silky" are what first come from the keyboard. The 2004 "E.T." is reminiscent of their 1997, a very ripe and sexy vintage indeed. Often with a decided fresh turned earth, cigar wrapper, Bordeaux-like quality, the 2004 Emilio's Terrace Cabernet has more dark & slightly jammy fruit, mocha and espresso. I don't know what style is better, but I do know that a wine like the 2004 is more universally appealing to Back Room Wines shoppers. Only 500 cases made.
October 18, 2007
ROCKLEDGE Cabernet Sauvignon "Rocks" Napa Valley 2004 ($60) is the new and improved Rockledge Cabernet. Mike Hirby, one of our favorite local winemakers (Relic, Sherwin Family and former assistant at Behrens & Hitchcock) took over winemaking for the 2004 vintage and greatly improved an already rock-solid red. It's an exceptional vineyard: rocky as the name suggest, benchland on the east side of Napa Valley (if you know where Joseph Phelps winery is, Rockledge is just behind it.) Reduced yields and lavish oak (deep fruit balances) make for a rather showy, rich, supple, dark, approachable-now Cabernet. Taste mocha, smoky oak, black currant, blueberry liqueur, licorice, maple and pie spices. This is nicely modern winemaking by someone who knows how. 500 cases made.
August 24, 2006
NEIMAN CELLARS RED WINE “CALDWELL VINEYARD” NAPA VALLEY 2003 ($80). Another Bordeaux style red blend. This wine is 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is very powerful but in a much different way than the Ramey. It’s sleek, tender and elegant in all the best ways. Loads of fruit, notes of sandalwood, tobacco and Asian spice. Drink now if you’d like-you’ll be very happy. Still, cellar it for at least a year for an even greater reward.
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